Mondeo Diesel - Wanting to buy - Seeking advice

[Johnno62]

Hello, after some advice from Mondeo Diesel owners. Looking to buy a used 2011+ diesel wagon with around 60,000-80,000km. Will be looking to get 10+ years use out of it. Have been researching for a few months and finally saved enough to seriously look at buying.
We live in central Victoria and travel approx 100km on weekdays up and down the Hume Hwy, so looking at diesel for economy. Currently only have the one car, 2003 BA LPG wagon with 370,000km on the clock which we're going to keep as the 2nd car/dog wagon.
Just been speaking to mechanic who services the BA, said a couple of things concerned him with Mondeo's and trying to steer us toward a petrol Hyundai i40 (not so keen myself).
He reckons diesel injectors wear and can require replacement at around 100,000km intervals at a cost between $3,000-4,000 and that the front brakes and tyres need replacing more frequently.
I've been researching the net for a few days and can't find anything definitive re his concerns, came across this fantastic forum and thought I'd ask the real experts, actuals owners.
Any help and advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Johnno

[rondeo]

My two Mondies have done 140000 km each with no change in performance, one has had zero mechanical failures, the other just a coolant leak and a $100 vacuum modulator.

Both cars are still on original brakes, with more to go: a result of not having to stop very often.

60000km Gearbox servicing is expensive,
it was about $900, now about $700.
DIY is a lot cheaper. The gearbox fluid filter used to be $102, now about $50: resembles a Victa lawnmower air filter.

One of the best DPF systems around.

Depreciation is very steep, good for the second-hand buyer. There was a 75000km TDCI LX wagon for $17000 at the dealer recently, half new price.

[sailaway]

Change mechanics for a start as it seems he know SWF or has a friend with a Hyundai i40 for sale.

My MC Mondy has over 220,000 on the clock and going strong. Probably doing a Melb > Bris return in it come Sept and feel confident it will be fine.

Did a search for Brissie mate for Mondy Wagons 2010 up and found bargains from just under $9K to $15K so check out Melb and Syd used cars online.

[Binny]

Welcome to the forum Johnno.

I have a few things to contribute.

Tyres - Mine lasted 95k. Replaced due to going hard and cracking, not wear. They are reasonably expensive though as the 16inch are an odd size. The 17inch are cheaper.

Brakes - Just replaced my rear pads and rotors @105k. I thought they were probably the second set @58k when I bought it but were half worn at the time so must have been the original set considering I did another 50k. Got quoted over $600 plus labour from the dealer. I bought a set of RDA rotors and pads for $220.

If you want the epitome of boring a wheezy 2L petrol i40 will fit the bill nicely.
The Mondeo is a much better drivers car and the wagons' boot is much bigger than the i40's.
But TBH if you are doing over 25k a year like you say and you want to get 10 years plus out of it I'm not sure I would have picked my Mondeo under the same circumstances.
I faced a similar decision vs buying something like a Camry and I'm glad I picked the driver's car of the two. But I may change my tune if I have an expensive gearbox issue like some in here have. I only plan having the car 3-4 years though.
If I wanted a used car that will last another 10+ years I would be avoiding direct injection, turbos, fancy transmissions etc.
It all depends on your risk appetite vs features/performance etc. And only you know where that balance is for you.

I'm not trying to turn you off but have a look through the threads in this forum so you can make an informed decision.

[Johnno62]

Thanks very much for the info Rondeo, Sailaway and Binny.
Didn't think it would be all doom and gloom, so many diesel options around now and good to get first hand feedback. Given me a bit to think about, but very sure this is the car I'd like to have.

Had a test drive of a 2011 LX model this afternoon, very impressive, very smooth shifting up and down through the gears, smooth acceleration and nice bites brakes. Only strange thing was the way the spare cover sits up a bit, but good that they have a full size spare onboard. Had a few too many km for the price, and as you've pointed out some absolute bargains around.

Might revise the life cycle expectations, be a little more on the pessimistic side and hope for a good 5+ years/250,000km and treat anything after that asa bonus. Start saving for the next one which should see me through to retirement.

Thanks again. I'll let you all know how I go and how much the sales people wring out of me, the only thing I'm not looking forward too!

[383hq]

I drive from central vic, 40k kms a year
diesel mondeo a dream
no brakes in last 2 years - highway doesn't use them
Have been worried about parts costs (Ford servicing every 60k km is $600 in DCT trans fluid)
and failure of turbo, fuel pump or injectors could be $2k a pop, but I'm at 150k km's with no issues - good drivers car, Hatchback is like the tardis.

it's no hairy chested blokes v8, but it's cheap on fuel. trade off is trans oil cost (not sure it's needed on highway - no clutch particle wear ruining fluid in highway travel) and part failure cost

They're made to cruise nicely at 130 (probably the french market to blame) and even does well on the dirt roads of Australia

[Binny]

Hey Johnno. They have a space saver standard mate which is why the floor is sitting up. The previous owner has put a full size spare in. Mine is the same but the previous owner made a new floor out of ply and foam so it's flat.

[Johnno62]

Another test drive, 2012 LX. Bit nippier than the 2011, but this one, previous owner must've been a smoker! Quite a few burn marks on the seats and the pong inside (tried to cover with a sickly fragrance).

Is there much or any difference between 2010, 2011 or 2012 in respect to engine and/or gear box?

There is some decent prices in and around Melbourne, 2012s with 100,000km advertised at $14k and 2011 with similar for around $12k.

Thanks for all the feedback again, has been invaluable. Hopefully this weekend I'll have something, but patient to find a good one.

[RandomThought]

I have a Titanium hatch TDCi and have had it for over 2 years with no problem except with the DPF but I think that was it was a very low K car when I bought it so didn't get run properly. With the Titanium you get the 18" wheels which makes the tyres pretty steep but I keep away from Ford for servicing and the costs are no different to any other car. You should have no problem with the DPF if you do the distances you are talking about.
The only thing I can recommend is the same with any modern car, check the serving history. If it is up to date there should be no problem.

Brad

[rondeo]

Originally Posted by Johnno62

Is there much or any difference between 2010, 2011 or 2012 in respect to engine and/or gear box?

2010 was the change from MB to MC. Don't know exactly when but MC are called MY2011 even when made in 2010. One of the differences there was the step up from Euro IV to Euro V emissions.

From MY2011 to 2014 one difference in late 2012 was the location of the diesel fuel filter, from under the rear to the engine compartment. Maybe someone knows something else!

[NZ XR6]

Originally Posted by rondeo

2010 was the change from MB to MC. Don't know exactly when but MC are called MY2011 even when made in 2010. One of the differences there was the step up from Euro IV to Euro V emissions.

From MY2011 to 2014 one difference in late 2012 was the location of the diesel fuel filter, from under the rear to the engine compartment. Maybe someone knows something else!

An important change occurred sometime during 2010 when a more powerful diesel engine and the Powershift transmission were fitted. All of the diesel MC models have this drivetrain, but I understand that some of the last MBs also have it.

The MB's with the conventional auto don't generally have any gearbox problems, although the fluid should be changed at least every 100,ooo km. But the Powershift can have expensive problems, so check it's OK on the test drive and make sure you have some kind of warranty cover.

The Powershift models certainly go better, and are more economical.

[Binny]

BTW Johnno an easy way to tell if it has the newer engine and Powershift is it has the words Power Shift on the identical gear shifter.
The lower drag of the dual clutch vs conventional trans sure makes a difference to economy. (and the engine updates that came at the same time)
Just did over 1200km from Ipswich to Laurieton NSW and return over the weekend with the boot chockers, then drove to work yesterday before filling up with 1240 on the trip meter. The DTE was still saying 120km to go. It worked out to about 5.4L/100km. Thats just nuts for a car this size and weight.

[NZ XR6]

Even my MB can do better than 6 l/100 km, but on published figures the MC is about 1 l/100 km more economical.