Ford capri mk1 gt breaks

[WOGBOY69]

HI ALL
WELL AS YOU ALL KNOW I HAVE COMPLETED A FORD CAPRI MK1 GT V6..
I HAVE HAD ALL THE BREAKS REDONE FRONT BACK BOOSTER AND CYLINDER THE LOT ALL REBUILT.
AND STILL MY BREAKS A ****..I WANT TO HAVE A PEDAL THAT STOPS THE CAR . NOT A PEDAL ITS THERE FOR LOOKS ..

ONCE I GOT THE BOOSTER AND THE MASTER REBUILT BOLTED BACK ON THE CAR . AND I HAD A FANTASTIC PEDAL GOOD BREAKS .
BUT AFTER 5mins OF DRIVING THE WHEELS LOCKED UP.. THE CAR DID NOT MOVIE .
I RELEASED THE PIN ON THE BOOSTER..AND THE CAR STARTED TO MOVIE AGAIN.I ADJUSTED THE PIN AT THE BACK SO IT WILL NOT LOCK UP ANYMORE . AND I HAVE A REALL ****** PEDAL.
HAS ANYONE GOT A IDEA FOR ME THAT GOOD AND KEEPING IT THE SAME GEAR..
ALL I WANT IS THE CAR TO PULL UP AND STOP ..PREATY EASY HAY...

[allanv6gt]

wogboy, remember these are 40yr old cars. Brake were 'adequate' in their day, and 'marginal' compared to anything modern.

When I put my V6 back together I bled and and adjusted and bled again and.... gave up....and got my mechanic to fix them at rego check time.
He found there was air still in the system (power bled it) and the handbrake was adjusted up too far to enable adequate bleeding (don't understand...but he fixed things). I've also heard horror stories about priming the master cylinder on the bench, then fitting, as being the only way to get rid of the air in it. Tried that, didn't work for me.

As for master cylinder adjustment pin, even a tiny bit off spec will lock or sponge your brakes.

Time for professional help?
The trick with these things is to know when to get professional assistance.
I mean, having built the thing up from a bare shell (panel, paint, mechanical, electrical, soft trim done by yourself), knowing every nut and bolt, you'd think bleeding the brakes would be a simple job, right? Apparently sometimes not !!!!

Good luck....

[900dukess]

How old are the flexible brake hoses, may be an idea to replace them as they may be swelling giving you a poor brake pedal, just a thought.

[gtv6capri]

I have just started re-reading brake posts as the brakes on my recently club reg 3000E are not too flash. There is a trick when bleeding capri brakes. The capri master cyl is lower down than the curved brake line leading to the brass valve. You need to jack the drivers side up so the MC is the highest point, then bleed the brakes.

For my car I have ordered a set of braided lines and am considering bigger wheel and master cylinders. However I'm curious if anyone has converted the rear brakes to MK2 Mk3 as these use a dual point cylinder instead of a single.

[WOGBOY69]

Hi gtv6capri
done all that jazz i am still with out brakes . But i am going to a a brake shop next week and fingers crossed they will work a dream....

[WOGBOY69]

Hi all
got my car back from bhss in brisbane .. Hmmmmmm is it fixed .not the best but slightly better.
Some new brake lines . Chance rubberson booster.bleed brakes .. Not alot changed ..
Whats other people thoghts on this
cheers
gerry

[WOGBOY69]

Oooo yes one more thing . He did say the booster needs to be pulled out and the pin inside that goes to the brake pedal . Needs to be adjustable . Cause my brake pedal is lower then all other padals by 20mm..
Do you think that makes since
hmmmmmm .. Maybe . He said i will get better brake pedal with that as well
cheers

[allanv6gt]

Reference - Ford Oz Capri 3000 Workshop manual
1. PIN 1 (sec 2-14) - There is an adjustable pin in the end of brake master actuating rod between the engine bay side of the booster and the master cylinder. Very small nut size ~6mm IIRC. Remove the bolts holding the brake master to the booster and you will see it.
The slack between the pin end and the cup face of the master cylinder plunger is critical. Not enough and the front brake stay on when hot, too little and you get poor brakes.
Ford Oz manual says :
before setting the push riod, introduce vacuum to the servo (few minurtes running)..Check the distance the push rod is below the servo front shell. To do this, place a straight edge across the front shell aboc ethe push rod and measure the gap with the feeler guages. this must be 0.011 to 0.016in (0.28-0.40mm). After setting apply a few drops of loctite to the thread of the domed adjusting bolt.

2. PIN 2 (sec.2-10) Pedal rod : measure the distance between the front face of the servo mounting bracket (servo shell end) and the cre-lie of the holes of the clevis yoke. Adjust push rod length if necessary so that this diemnsion is 6.16 to 6.28 in (156.5-159.5mm). It is most important this dimension is correctly set and that the yellow paint duab on the clevis yoke is towards the centre of the car. Tighten the locknut. And has a nice diagram showing above words in action.
(ed. - never done this as have only replaced the whole built-up unit intact.)

PM me your email if you need more info and I'll send some scans of the relevant pages.

[WOGBOY69]

pm sent
cheers

[allanv6gt]

Wogboy - check your email....
Good luck