AU ute rear end measurements - can you help?

DanXR6T · 03-12-2006, 12:09 AM

Hey all,

Can someone with a AU XLS/XR UTE give me the centre of hub to top of guard measurements for the front and rear?

I'm assuming that the rear suspension/leaves didn't change from model to model? Ie are all interchangeable?

Thanks,
Daniel..

JC · 03-12-2006, 12:31 AM

Work on 680 rear and 665 front from ground to guard. I think that's around 370 and 355 from hub centre to guard.

DanXR6T · 03-12-2006, 12:57 AM

Thanks JC.

The background to my line of thinking of lowering without having to get larger rims (and the associated load ratings for the one tonne rating - I know this is an on-going issue lol).

My ute currently has 15" rims, which I fairly happy with. I mean I'd like 17's or bigger, but I'm not fussed over it..

There are two ways to lower it, lowered manufactured springs (or reset ones), or lowering blocks.

The problem with lowering blocks is the lower shock mount is on the outside of the leaves, and extends into the realms of the inside of the rim. So there is clearance issues. However I also have 30mm of packing springs UNDER the leaves, so I worked out I can move these above the leaves, and this will bring the ute 30mm lower at the rear - leaving the relationship between the rims and the lower shock mounting the same.

The end result will have the ute being faily level, although still stock height at the front, with the rear being brought down 30mm.

My next issue will be finding out if the XLS and 1 tonne springs are physically different, I'm assuming they are, and would be about 25mm lower.

I just realised this probably all makes no sense!!

JC · 03-12-2006, 01:25 AM

I have lowering blocks in my wagon - you can go for 1.5" (38mm) without needing to worry about the outboard shock clearance. You cannot go 2" lowering block as it will foul.

DanXR6T · 03-12-2006, 02:04 AM

Just went out and checked, on 15" rims I think it would be VERY close with a 38mm drop, but 16" rims would not be a problem at all. Might look at picking up some 16" steelies as a temp measure. I could then paint them black and go and do some ... oh thats right, I no longer have my EA....

Another thing I have looked at is getting the eyes reversed. I believe this would create another 45mm drop... but I might talk to some engineering places first..

Overall, that would be a 38+45=83mm drop.. quite substantial... I think I'll wait until I get my Whiteline Control front springs (damn delays!!) before I commit to the rear drops, don't want to the rear to be lower than the front, because that would look kinda gay...

JC · 03-12-2006, 09:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Axeman82

Just went out and checked, on 15" rims I think it would be VERY close with a 38mm drop, but 16" rims would not be a problem at all. Might look at picking up some 16" steelies as a temp measure. I could then paint them black and go and do some ... oh thats right, I no longer have my EA....

Another thing I have looked at is getting the eyes reversed. I believe this would create another 45mm drop... but I might talk to some engineering places first..

Overall, that would be a 38+45=83mm drop.. quite substantial... I think I'll wait until I get my Whiteline Control front springs (damn delays!!) before I commit to the rear drops, don't want to the rear to be lower than the front, because that would look kinda gay...

The size rims you fit will not affect ride height very much at all - maybe 1 to 2 mm. The idea when going to larger diameter rim is to go lower profile tyre to compensate so that the overall tyre height is the same.

DanXR6T · 03-12-2006, 11:55 AM

You missed my point, maybe I explained it poorly.

I am not looking at rim size to change the height, its the internal backspace in the smaller rims that is limiting to lowering in the utes.

With 16" rims there will be more internal clearance in the rim itself, so 38mm lowering blocks will still allow the outboard lower shock mount to sit inside the rim backspace.

With 15" rims and a 38mm lowering block, I believe it was be either extremely close or rub on the inside of the rim.

17" rims can run bigger lowering blocks, but then you can't really run the correct load rated tyres in the correct size.

I am very aware of tyre profiles, etc, etc.

**Mechan1k** · 04-12-2006, 08:36 AM

If you wanted to know the different in the springs ... the standard XLS Sports leaves (same as XR) had the same amount of leaves as the 1-tonne (without packing springs).

Iff you get my drift ... hee hee.

If you removed the packing springs (or placed them on the top as you were thinking) ... it should bring it down to XLS/XR height ... theoretically.

From memory looking under both XLS and 1-tonne ... the difference was the pkacking springs to allow the higher load capacity.

DanXR6T · 04-12-2006, 08:42 AM

Yeah thats my thoughts, use the free lowering blocks I already have!

I should have done it yesterday when I installed the whiteline bars, but I was more interested in getting out for a drive, than mucking around with suspension.

**Mechan1k** · 04-12-2006, 08:46 AM

I reckno give it a go and see how it goes ... the only thing is clearance ... but I don't really see an issue once the packers have been removed and put above the normal leaves.

Try one side and drop it back down and see how you go.

JC · 04-12-2006, 11:24 AM

I doubt the packers will fit above the normal leaves because of the shape of the bracket, but worth a try, I guess.

**Mechan1k** · 04-12-2006, 11:26 AM

true ... I haven't taken that close a look at it.

Or just remove the packers ... but then you lose load capabilities and most likely are illegal anyway.