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Old 01-01-2006, 10:04 PM   #1
Pies1
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Default Improving performance in my AU2 S I6

I got a rude shock yesterday when a smart-**** in a semi-clapped out E-Series style Ute (XH?) was able to keep up with me when we tried to drag each other off at a set lights.

My car is in excellent condition, no mechanical problems to this stage, done 70,000kms etc.

The car is superb when cruising at high speeds down the highway etc, but its sluggish in the 0-80 km/hr area i find.

I am thinking of getting the Jim Mock DEV2 system fitted to my car, Jim claims he can get 128rwkw from car once fitted.

I think my car in standard form gets around 100-105rwkw or something.

Any other AU I6 owners have the JMM kits fitted or have done something to improve the low-end torque in the cars.

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Old 02-01-2006, 07:49 PM   #2
rayner22
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I got full 3inch lukey exhaust and hi-flow, ss induction and throttle body when i first bought my au, and none of my mates in e-series could keep up with it at all.
Maybe the ute just got u cos of the smaller weight compared to a sedan.
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Old 02-01-2006, 08:29 PM   #3
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Search is your friend see what other people have done and how it worked for them.

for street performance out of an auto consider a 3.73 diff good extractors and a 2.5" cat back exhaust and you will be cooking. maybe a chiptorque chip too and a change to PULP to match would do nicely. You are right abot the 105rwkw and Jim is dreaming about the 128rwkw. Think about UP TO 128rwkw but not less than 115rwkw and consider if this is OK with you.
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Old 02-01-2006, 10:51 PM   #4
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wouldn't a 4.11 diff give u better take off??
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Old 02-01-2006, 11:04 PM   #5
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I have 3.73 diff ratio...I wish I went to 3.91 ratio.I am pulling 4700 rpm across the line.I should be ideally pulling 5000+
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Old 03-01-2006, 01:38 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Baboon_AU
wouldn't a 4.11 diff give u better take off??
would give you a much better take off, but its not ideal for the street/highway..

3.7's to 3.9's would be the way to go.. if you want to change the diff ratio..

if auto, get a jmm 3000 stally, and a shift kit.. will launch you off the line alot harder..


other then that, theres the basics - headers/exhaust/intake/unichip or edit..

all will make you go faster..
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Old 03-01-2006, 07:32 AM   #7
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You never know the ute might have been a sleeper ... and gets a hell of a lot of unsuspecting people out there thinking it's a 5h1tbox.

And I thnk from memory utes are heavier than sedans as well.

Do the basics as Stiddy said ... and slowly work your way up (or quickly if you have the cash to do it).

Or supercharge it ... or turbo charge it ... it's up to you though.
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Old 03-01-2006, 06:39 PM   #8
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Thanks for the advice guys.

Maybe the Ute was a Manual too, aren't they quicker than auto's.

He had two wheelie bins in the back too!

Yeah, I have the cash to mod my car significantly, but maybe I should leave the car as is, and upgrade to a new model instead.
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Old 03-01-2006, 11:19 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pies1
Thanks for the advice guys.

Maybe the Ute was a Manual too, aren't they quicker than auto's.

He had two wheelie bins in the back too!

Yeah, I have the cash to mod my car significantly, but maybe I should leave the car as is, and upgrade to a new model instead.
Weight up your options!! what are you going to use your car for, daily driver, fun car etc. have a long hard think about what you are going to use your car for & budget costs etc. Remember a car that is not really streetable is fine for weekends but the fun wears off if it is your everyday driver
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Old 03-01-2006, 11:38 PM   #10
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Go The E-Series!!!!

woohooooot *runs away after causeing a ruckus*
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Old 04-01-2006, 09:07 AM   #11
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Pies dont muck around like I did,learn from my stuff ups.Get a big cam eg dev 5 and head for some serious six power. Always remember that you sacrifice power by going smaller in cam and for the same cost get the more powerfull one.Next get the edit done.The idle on my dev 4 is the best its been with the edit.

For the driveline get a 3.91 lsd diff and a Jim Mock 3000 stall converter. Stall converters arent all the same so get a good one or your power will go down the drain.

If you do what I just stated here you will have a low 14 car. As a start get the cam and head.But you will need the idle fixed as the dev 5 cars ive seen in Sydney idle rough but have good power.The edit will fix this.
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FG 1 2 and 3 gauge holder in stock now! https://stingraycar.com.au/shop/
Site Sponsor See Sponsor Stingray Car Security 😍👌✌

AU wagon 6 14.241@96.75 1/4 mile sold.Octane fg xr6 turbo!! 12.312 112.21 mph home tune f6 injectors gone ..now in nitro fgxr6t ready to go again
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Old 04-01-2006, 06:17 PM   #12
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Weight up your options!! what are you going to use your car for, daily driver, fun car etc. have a long hard think about what you are going to use your car for & budget costs etc.

Exactly. If you just want a daily driver with a bit more poke go the exhaust, extractors, intake way. You'll still be fine with insurance and you'll get a noticeable increase in power. Once you start putting in cams and chips/edits/etc you'll prob be up for a different insurance company(check beforehand) as they get funny when you put certain mods on.
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Old 04-01-2006, 06:21 PM   #13
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Quote:
But you will need the idle fixed as the dev 5 cars ive seen in Sydney idle rough but have good power.
Can't say I had a prob with mine. Even before the Unichip. It was well behaved.
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