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Old 22-03-2007, 01:02 PM   #31
Casper
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Quote:
Originally Posted by superroo
Isn't yours a custom stall though. I could be worng but i thought you had 3500rpm or whatever stall in it which isn't off the shelf stuff
Yes, mine is custom. They have done quite a few "Non custom" though. Hamo's AU and FRDGRL spring to mind.
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Old 22-03-2007, 01:35 PM   #32
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A stall should be matched directly to your camshaft specs.The rpm when your cam starts working means your stall should be as high as that as a minumum,eg-2000-5500 camshaft=22oo stall,2500-6000 camshaft=2700 stall etc you get the idea.You want the stall rpm to be at least the same as when your cam comes in so you dont have to wait for it to wind up and that is the correct way to select a stall.On an engine with a standard cam a 2000-2200 stall is plenty big enough.Any decent engine builder, transmission pro will tell you the same. :
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Old 22-03-2007, 01:48 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AUTickford
A stall should be matched directly to your camshaft specs.The rpm when your cam starts working means your stall should be as high as that as a minumum,eg-2000-5500 camshaft=22oo stall,2500-6000 camshaft=2700 stall etc you get the idea.You want the stall rpm to be at least the same as when your cam comes in so you dont have to wait for it to wind up and that is the correct way to select a stall.On an engine with a standard cam a 2000-2200 stall is plenty big enough.Any decent engine builder, transmission pro will tell you the same. :
With the I6 at least there is a noticable "kick" at around 3000-3200rpm in the AU's. This is where the standard XR6 cams (at least on my VCT) really came in. It could also be due to the VCT as well, not certain. Either way the dyno backed it up with all the power being up in the 4200-4800rpm range. After the edit the torque had also moved up the rev range quite a bit too.
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Old 22-03-2007, 02:19 PM   #34
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i suppose if your talking INSTALLED with the transmission cooler then yeah it would be getting close to 1000, its just blokes like JMM are quoting a fair bit over that aren't they or not, $1000 bucks on their website
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Old 22-03-2007, 04:10 PM   #35
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what i quoted is a rule of thumb but every motor is different.The torque produced by a motor will affect stall speed also.So hopefully someone will get useful info from my post????
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Old 22-03-2007, 04:37 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AUTickford
A stall should be matched directly to your camshaft specs.The rpm when your cam starts working means your stall should be as high as that as a minumum,eg-2000-5500 camshaft=22oo stall,2500-6000 camshaft=2700 stall etc you get the idea.You want the stall rpm to be at least the same as when your cam comes in so you dont have to wait for it to wind up and that is the correct way to select a stall.On an engine with a standard cam a 2000-2200 stall is plenty big enough.Any decent engine builder, transmission pro will tell you the same. :
My auto guy just yesterday was recommending for a stock AU I6 to go for 2,200 stall. He said the biggest mistake people make is to over stall it.

I suspect Casper's car being VCT has a more discernable kick at the revs he described. Others with VCT may be able to confirm this as well.

I was quoted $1000 with the full flush, (he didn't mention an oil cooler though). This was for a very good quality stall with the good bits. A whole changeover box would be $1,550 plus GST not including the stallie.

To do the valve body adn change solenoids was $440 plus $200 for a full flush. Not cheap, but I'm going to have to get the box worked on soon enough, may as well stick in a stallie as well.

I've said this before, that he is sure the AU I6 is stalled for 1,800rpm.

Cheers,

GK
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Old 22-03-2007, 08:16 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Casper
If you are really concerned about fuel consumption then hi stalls are probably not for you.
On average I use about 5% more fuel with it (now closer to 10% with the Diff gears).

Performance has a price, usually that price includes reduced fuel economy. Oddly enough though the edit dramatically improved the cars feul economy. A lot to be said for a decent tune.
It's not realy that odd, stock au's run realy rich, the edit leans them out hence better performance and economy. On another not what sort of fuel consumption do you get with the 4.11's I do a bit of highway driving so I'm humming and harring as to what gears to go.
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Old 22-03-2007, 08:50 PM   #38
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Oh man, there are some pretty convincing arguments here! There goes next months loan repayments! I am not too worried about fuel consumption myself, but i just don't want it to become a slug in traffic.

Evan
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Old 22-03-2007, 09:50 PM   #39
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Originally Posted by ClassicAU
Oh man, there are some pretty convincing arguments here! There goes next months loan repayments! I am not too worried about fuel consumption myself, but i just don't want it to become a slug in traffic.

Evan

Mine is a fraction doughier right down low than a standard version, but I really only noticed after driving this and my stock EF back to back. It really isn't that noticeable. At all other times the car is much perkier to drive.
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Old 22-03-2007, 11:08 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stockoau
It's not realy that odd, stock au's run realy rich, the edit leans them out hence better performance and economy.
You missed the sarcasm : Yes, the stock ECU's ran rich and the VCT ECU's took it to a whole new level of pig rich!

Quote:
Originally Posted by stockoau
On another not what sort of fuel consumption do you get with the 4.11's I do a bit of highway driving so I'm humming and harring as to what gears to go.
Not really all that sure, I never really take much notice of it. When its empty I fill up.

I will say that I drove from Shell at Kalkallo with a full tank of fuel all the way to Shepp, did the skidpan day (not exactly fuel efficient.. full throttle or nothing the whole time) and drove home to Werribee with more than 1/4 tank left in it. I was pretty impressed with that economy really.
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Old 23-03-2007, 10:41 PM   #41
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You might be able to tell me, I've got at AU XR8 serries one motor and ECU, the motors been rebuilt and had a tickle up and ECU chipped too, I'm going to have to get a custom converter made up thats a givin', but I've also been told of Limp mode if the stall is out of specs. Can anyone shed some light on this for me?
Cheers.
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Old 23-03-2007, 11:18 PM   #42
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If you have an edit the Limp Home mode becomes a non issue.
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Old 24-03-2007, 12:29 AM   #43
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Quote:
If you are really concerned about fuel consumption then hi stalls are probably not for you.
NO WAY I got flogged by a VN 5h!tbox with 3 passengers today, made me so MAD!! I don't care what I have to sacrifice to get some dignity at the lights.
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Old 24-03-2007, 01:17 AM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Casper
If you have an edit the Limp Home mode becomes a non issue.

My "edit" is a custom tune by chiptorqe using the j3 chip, is this ok?
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Old 24-03-2007, 01:21 AM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bundybloke
My "edit" is a custom tune by chiptorqe using the j3 chip, is this ok?
you would need to talk to Lachlan however my understanding is the J3 can do some auto editing, LHM may be one of them.
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Old 24-03-2007, 01:25 AM   #46
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ok thanks, I have had the shift points changed, the shift pressure changed, the rev limit changed, Maf edit but torque limiter is still a big issue that has still to be nutted out, but I hear the're still working on it. thanks again.
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