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#1 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Brissy!
Posts: 472
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so the o ring of my powersetting hose connecting to the powersteeing pump or resuviue is leaking i got a new hose and o rings etc, how does 1 go about replaceing, is it just like disconnect both ends and let it drain then replace?
thanks
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#2 | ||
Donating Member
![]() Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 5,509
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You sure you cant just replace the nut?
90% of the leaks are the o ring inside the nut that screws into the tank Check this http://www.fordforums.com.au/showthread.php?t=11240445 But if you already have the hose just undo it, drain the oil, and put hose on, try not to get oil into alternator, not good for it |
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#3 | |||
Made the 300 :0)
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Dayton W.A
Posts: 544
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Quote:
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New Owner of a fiesta ST |
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#4 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Perth, South
Posts: 3,064
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he has a whole new hose by the sounds of his post....
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#5 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 717
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How does the new nut go on? You buy a replacement from Ford right?
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#6 | |||
The Ancient Warrior
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: The Qld Border Ranges
Posts: 346
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Quote:
Attach the new hose, doesn't matter which end first, and fill the reserevoir with the Ford recommended power steering fluid, Mobilfluid 424, or equivalent. When you've got it to the correct COLD level, start the motor and turn the wheels lock to lock a half a dozen times, to purge the air out of the system. It might be easier to jack the front of the car up to take the weight off the front wheels to do this. Finally, check the level again, test drive and recheck the level. It can be a messy job, so have plenty of waste rags handy. |
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#7 | ||
Donating Member
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JMO
Just buy nut from Ford, about $10 Some will tell you they dont sell it from what I have heard Screw it into the pump first, then clip in the hose, (which you will have already cut off the old nut and cleaned the end) the reason for this is less wear on the inner o ring inside the nut than if you screw it up into the pump. I cut my old nut off the other way (through the thread) but whatever works for you |
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#8 | |||
XR6T 400kw(well one day!)
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Toodyay W.A.
Posts: 1,008
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Quote:
I presume this fitting is screwed into the reservoir? If so, when you cut it do you have to cut it where it is? Or can you unscrew it and move it to the side a bit and then cut it??? Just looks a bit tricky where it is now thats all.
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If it Vibrates, rattles, squeaks or knocks - then it must be a Territory |
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#9 | ||
formerly "3x-puursui7"
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: perth, WA (SOR)
Posts: 224
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yes most definatly unscrew it first then move it, theres a fair bit of movement in the tube, undo the clamp further down if you need more, i would recommend cutting it because i changed the whole lot and what a PITA!!!
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all hail the mighty V8's ![]() http://www.aufalcon.com.au/3x-puursui7 |
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#10 | ||
XR6T 400kw(well one day!)
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Toodyay W.A.
Posts: 1,008
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OK thanks.
I haven't got an angle grinder, so do you reckon I could cut through it with a hacksaw blade instead??
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If it Vibrates, rattles, squeaks or knocks - then it must be a Territory |
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#11 | ||
Donating Member
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It will be slower but safer in case you go too deep with the grinder
May be a bit of a tight fit to get a hacksaw blade in around the engine but You can remove the whole hose and do it in a vice, much safer and easier if your are not sure Just be careful not to damage the tube part where you have to put the new nut if you cut that you will need an entire new hose. So basically if you do it right you save $100, if you stuff it up you have spent the same amount as if you took it to a mechanic I do it in the car in about 10 minutes but I have done dozens of them. |
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#12 | ||
Made the 300 :0)
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Dayton W.A
Posts: 544
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I had my mate cheap electric grinder that he uses for stereo fitting with the small disc on it.Would pay to get the new fitting first so you can judge the depth of the nut.Just be patient better than changing out the whole line on the V8.
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#13 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Brissy!
Posts: 472
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um i have a lil problem, theirs this thing thats stops me from replaceign the whole thing. :( and its all greasy!
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#14 | |||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Moree, NSW
Posts: 2,076
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On the drivers side there is a little clip, push down on the top and using a thin blade screw driver pry the to pieces apart on that drivers side.
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Nathan 2005 FPV BF Super Pursuit The new toy (now sold) The SP The old ute (sold) www.aufalcon.com/nc1183 Build Thread Quote:
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#15 | |||
Boost Addict
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: North Brisbane
Posts: 1,151
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Quote:
degrease it
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N12 Pulsar - sold Gen1 Liberty Turbo - sold VP Commodore Turbo - sold LN65 Hilux Turbo - sold EL31 Corolla Turbo - sold Ford AU Ute Turbo - sold Ford AU XR8 Sedan - 5.4l V8 Turbo (in the build) Ford BA XR6T Ute - daily driver Ford FG XR6T Sedan - cruiser do you see a general trend? I DO ![]() Can't live with it, can't live without it! |
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#16 | ||
Donating Member
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Or undo the Bolt that holds it to the subframe so you can move things easier, 12mm I think
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#17 | ||||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Moree, NSW
Posts: 2,076
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Quote:
I found that harder to undo the clamp, because you are trying to squeeze it instead of just pushing on it.
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Nathan 2005 FPV BF Super Pursuit The new toy (now sold) The SP The old ute (sold) www.aufalcon.com/nc1183 Build Thread Quote:
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#18 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 87
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Instead of cutting down the fitting, get a haxsaw and cut just underneath the shoulder (just where the thread starts) of the fitting. You only have to cut through about 3mm of the fitting until the fitting breaks appart and the circlip is revealed. Pop the circlip off and the rest of the connection comes off and the plus to this is that the pipe doesn't get dammaged. If you cut down the fitting or use a grinder you run a great risk of stuffing up. Takes about 15 mins to do, and the fitting costs about $10 also the o rings are maker o rings, so ford is pretty much the only place to get them from
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#19 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 98
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Hi. Can anyone tell me why Ford uses the O ring fitting at the power steering pump pressure hose on BA Falcons when the line is made of flexible hose from the pump to the rack
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#20 | ||
Donating Member
![]() Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 5,509
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Not sure but I have never blown a hose (the rubber bit) since they did.
They will eventually wear out, the aluminium where the nut and o ring sit gets too marked and the o ring wont seal properly, this will be about 300000kms but. The old way the rubber hoses got brittle and if you had to move the pump to do a repair they would usually spring a leak a week later. I used to get Enzed to make me proper hoses that would last longer There were several early AU's and E series that burst a P/S hose and sprayed it onto the manifold and caught fire. I think it is a better way, after I had the heart attack at the price of changing the entire hose, I did the nut fix early on, despite everyone telling me it wasn't possible. |
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#21 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 98
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Jastel. thanks for that info it makes a lot of sense it does get pretty hot at the pump, I have no leaks now so I will leave it as it is, I think I will be a while putting 300000kms on the car I keep the car checked over well just don't like oil leaks.
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#22 | ||
Starter Motor
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Fremantle WA
Posts: 3
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I know this is an old thread : however I have just done my 2004 BA XR6 hose nut today. Ive owned the car for the past 14 years so its done well not to leak till now.
It was a fairly simple job to cut the old nut off with a dremel cutting disc. The awkward bit was putting the new nut back into the pump. The inherent twist in the hose constantly fought against me. It took nearly 15 minutes to get the thread to bite. My top tip is to put the new nut back into the pump first by a couple of turns then push the hose in till it clicks then fully tighten. Happy days. |
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