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#1 | ||
T-Series Club Member Vic
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Melbourne (South-East)
Posts: 2,755
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This info is not quite right for series 1 AU's as they're different, but the basics are no doubt the same.
This is such a simple job that I thought I'd throw up a few pics that I took while I was at it to perhaps encourage someone to have a shot at this themselves. It doesn't take long, I spent more time cleaning the front wheels and brakes than I did on the actual swaybar change. The swaybar D-bushes are prone to knocking over bumps so even if you aren't wanting to put in a heavier bar as I am, this info could still be useful to change the bushes. Firstly, don't do this without jack stands (or ramps) and be sure to do it on firm level ground. What's going in - Whiteline - BFF21XZ, 30mm thick and adjustable between two settings: http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_detail4.php?part_number=BFF21XZ ![]() What you get; ![]() The new D-bushes are solid. I wasn't keen to cut them so I left them sitting on the warm engine's intake manifold while I jacked the car - this enabled me, with some difficulty, to slide them over the end blades of the swaybar. ![]() They also come with grease that's very necessary. It also must not taste very nice as the dog took only a small sample! ![]() This is your best jack stand positioning and why I removed the wheels - as wide as you safely can and under the lower arm so that the suspension is as close to driving ride height as possible. If you want do it the right way; 1. Loosen wheel nuts. 2. Raise one side on the jack. 3. Remove wheel 4. Place wheel under the sill at the front door so that if you jack fails you will probably not die. 5. Place jack stand as indicated in the below pic. 6. Let the car down onto the jack stand. ![]() To remove the old bar, it's a 14mm nut on the swaybar link that you see in the foreground of the above pic, and then the two 13mm nuts that hold the D-shackle thingy in the background. The second last pic is a better one for seeing them. Here's the D-bush fitted to the bar. You could also warm it in hot water to help soften it enough to get it over the swaybar end. It needs to be well greased and you'll note that the bush is designed to seal around the edges to keep the grease in. Hopefully you don't lose too much grease when sliding the bush over the end of the 'bar. I also greased the outside of the such but these fitted so snugly once tightened that I feel that wasn't really necessary. ![]() A comparison of the bars showing relative thickness and also the length to the swaybar link. You always put an adjustable swaybar on at it's softest setting so I'll be using the hole closet to the end. ![]() Another shot, trying to highlight the difference in thickness between the standard Series 2 TE50 bar and the new one. You can also see the wear on the old bar caused by it moving within the D-bushes. Unlike most of the bushes in your suspension that are thick and soft enough to flex across their range of movement, these are designed to 'slide' over the swaybar so the bushes do wear once the grease hardens - and that's when the knocking starts. ![]() To refit to the car, fit the ends first and then place the D-shackles over the bushes that you slid onto the 'bar and tighten. As you can see, the dog is still standing so the grease hasn't killed her. Yet. ![]() This is my glamour shot of the bar, though the background also serves to show that I really was responsible and initially fitted the bar on the softest setting;) ![]() After a quick spin, my initial impression is that even on the softer setting it corners MUCH flatter now ![]() For anyone thinking of replacing their bushes only, if your new bushes are cut as the old ones on my car were then you won't even need to take the bar all of the way out - just undo the shackles, whip the old one out, clean up the inside of the shackle, lubricate the inside of the bush and refit. Next job is the rear bar and that's no picnic on an IRS car so I'll leave it for a weekend. Al. Last edited by Uncle_Ken; 07-03-2020 at 01:18 PM. |
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#2 | ||
AU3 5.0L Fairmont Wagon
![]() Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Ford Performance Club of ACT
Posts: 2,510
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Another great writeup mate, I'm sure this would help those unsure of what to do. Good job.
I havent changed my sway par yet but its on the list, I have heard it makes a great difference to the cars feel. Ray
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#3 | ||
Defender of the faith
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Albany, West Ubercoolische
Posts: 518
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Awesome write up. Sway bar is on my to-do list, so this will be very helpful
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#4 | |||
You can't stop the signal
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Behind a computer at work
Posts: 1,624
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Additional tip I have herd, is to wrap the area where the bush sits on the bar in Teflon tape.
Helps reduce friction and stops any squeaking. Cheers
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#5 | ||
T-Series Club Member Vic
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Melbourne (South-East)
Posts: 2,755
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A quick note on this - I fitted the Whiteline 20mm three way adjustable bar yesterday and it's fairly horrific to fit in your driveway on jack stands. Getting the old one out was not so bad, but the new one in is bulkier and a driveshaft needs to come out.
It took me ages and everything hurts =) |
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#6 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Adelaide
Posts: 2,802
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I just did the 30mm on the front of my au s3, awesome upgrade for $175! not so easy doing it with the car not jacked up but can be done!
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#7 | ||
Q - CAR
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Central Coast ..
Posts: 746
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Would just like to add, i snapped my left under carriage that holds the sway bar and i was told that it was because i needed to have the weight of the wheel on the ground prior to tightening. Mechanic said you nip everything up hand tight, put blocks under the wheels and than get under and torque bolts.
Not sure how true all that is, however, i will be replacing both undercarriages next week and i will be following above method.
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AU FORD STROKER 347 Windsor Stroked; (10:2.1) / TFS 190 heads / TFS R Series 90 manifold / Accufab 85mm Race TB / 90mm Lightening MAF / K&N 90mm pod CAI / FTI custom cam (230-236 @ 50) / Bosch 36lb inject / MSD coil + leads / ASR 8lt sump / Mcleod RST Twin Plate Clutch / Pacemakers PH4006 + 3" single exhaust / BA Premium brake pac / Pedders Xtreme coil over shocks / 30mm Whiteline sway / 3.45 LSD / Custom FG bonnet / Ghia interior upgrade / Enkie Rims - staggered / Quarter Horse tuned. |
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#8 | ||
Starter Motor
Join Date: Sep 2019
Posts: 6
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Where are the photos?
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#9 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Newcastle NSW
Posts: 7,890
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This thread is 7 years old. The pics were probably hosted on photobucket or similiar and have now been unlinked meaning you now cant see them
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T3 TL50 #147 Silhouette Auto ESS - Brembos - Last of 3 in T3 spec, only AUIII TL50 ever built -14.2 sec @ 98mph bog stock. Only customer ordered T3 TL50 built, only LWB sedan plated AUIII and the last performance enhanced LWB sedan built by Ford Aust. AUII Fairlane Ghia Sportsman 5.0L in Blue Pearl OWN THE ROAD |
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#10 | ||
Next upgraded Mk1 Leopard
![]() Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Sydney, in the burbs
Posts: 4,908
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Fixed
The error was Https but http worked UK
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Plastic Surgery 1 AUII Monsoon Blue How 2's: Change rear view mirror, Install backfire valve, Change foam front seats, Install auto transmission cooler, Replace Trans Shift Globe, Remove front door Trim, Paint AU headlights, install door spears, Premium Rear Parcel Shelf, go here...
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#11 | ||
T-Series Club Member Vic
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Melbourne (South-East)
Posts: 2,755
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Thanks UK, at some stage the forum seems to have decided that the links all needed to be changed to https. I could handle it at my end but that domain name is no longer needed as I don't really want to pay for an ssl certificate for a dead domain. If I could edit my posts I could update them all but I don't think this is an option (?)
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#12 | ||
Starter Motor
Join Date: Sep 2019
Posts: 6
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Hey thanks for getting the photos through guys, this will be my next project on the coon, hopefully keep her running healthy and strong.
Last edited by Space of Aids; 08-03-2020 at 06:57 PM. |
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#13 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Apr 2015
Posts: 59
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Hey mate I know this is an old thread but I need to do this for some clunkiness and the photos are no longer showing up. Would greatly appreciate
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Current: AUIII XR6 Silhouette 164kW Sedan 390xxx kms Past: AUII XR6 Silhouette 172kW VCT sedan 256xxxkms AUIII Forte Winter White 157kW sedan 201xxxkms
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#14 | ||
T-Series Club Member Vic
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Melbourne (South-East)
Posts: 2,755
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I got you. I’ll sort it out when I get home. Give me a couple of hours.
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#15 | ||
T-Series Club Member Vic
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Melbourne (South-East)
Posts: 2,755
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Reposting this, with the images restored. I also took the opportunity to revise my dubious attempts at humour.
This info is not quite right for series 1 AU's as they're different, but the basics are no doubt the same. This is such a simple job that I thought I'd throw up a few pics that I took while I was at it to perhaps encourage someone to have a shot at this themselves. It doesn't take long, I spent more time cleaning the front wheels and brakes than I did on the actual swaybar change. The swaybar D-bushes are prone to knocking over bumps so even if you aren't wanting to put in a heavier bar as I am, this info could still be useful to change the bushes. Firstly, don't do this without jack stands (or ramps) and be sure to do it on firm level ground. What's going in - Whiteline - BFF21XZ, 30mm thick and adjustable between two settings: https://old.whitelineperformance.com...ade-adjustable ![]() What you get; ![]() The new D-bushes are solid. I wasn't keen to cut them so I left them sitting on the warm engine's intake manifold while I jacked the car - this enabled me, with some difficulty, to slide them over the end blades of the swaybar. ![]() They also come with grease that's very necessary. It also must not taste very nice as the dog took only a small sample! ![]() This is your best jack stand positioning and why I removed the wheels - as wide as you safely can and under the lower arm so that the suspension is as close to driving ride height as possible. If you want do it the right way; 1. Loosen wheel nuts. 2. Raise one side on the jack. 3. Remove wheel 4. Place wheel under the sill at the front door so that if you jack fails you will probably not die. 5. Place jack stand as indicated in the below pic. 6. Let the car down onto the jack stand. ![]() To remove the old bar, it's a 14mm nut on the swaybar link that you see in the foreground of the above pic, and then the two 13mm nuts that hold the D-shackle thingy in the background. The second last pic is a better one for seeing them. Here's the D-bush fitted to the bar. You could also warm it in hot water to help soften it enough to get it over the swaybar end. It needs to be well greased and you'll note that the bush is designed to seal around the edges to keep the grease in. Hopefully you don't lose too much grease when sliding the bush over the end of the 'bar. I also greased the outside of the such but these fitted so snugly once tightened that I feel that wasn't really necessary. ![]() A comparison of the bars showing relative thickness and also the length to the swaybar link. I figure that you should always try an adjustable swaybar on at it's softest setting initially, so I'll be using the hole closet to the end. ![]() Another shot, trying to highlight the difference in thickness between the standard Series 2 TE50 bar and the new one. You can also see the wear on the old bar caused by it moving within the D-bushes. Unlike most of the bushes in your suspension that are thick and soft enough to flex across their range of movement, these are designed to 'slide' over the swaybar so the bushes do wear once the grease hardens - and that's when the knocking starts. ![]() To refit to the car, fit the ends first and then place the D-shackles over the bushes that you slid onto the 'bar and tighten. ![]() This is my glamour shot of the bar ![]() After a quick spin, my initial impression is that even on the softer setting it corners MUCH flatter now ![]() For anyone thinking of replacing their bushes only, if your new bushes are cut as the old ones on my car were then you won't even need to take the bar all of the way out - just undo the shackles, whip the old one out, clean up the inside of the shackle, lubricate the inside of the bush and refit. Next job is the rear bar and that's no picnic on an IRS car so I'll leave it for a weekend. Al. |
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#16 | ||
T-Series Club Member Vic
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Melbourne (South-East)
Posts: 2,755
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Since it's been ten years of daily driving on the Whiteline bars front and rear, I thought I'd update this thread with some thoughts, in case anyone is interested.
The brackets bolted to the rails in the above picture cracked shortly after fitting the front swaybar. I replaced them and they have been fine so I suspect the original spec was updated with a stronger variant one at some point. I don't think that they're still available. As well as the replacement brackets, I fitted Whiteline adjustable drop links. These allow you to remove all swaybar preload if you can get under the car when it's on it's wheels. This gives a brilliant on-centre feel to the steering, that I really like. ![]() The ride with these bars can be quite tedious on poor quality roads and lower speeds. Cornering speed and control are massively improved though, so going back to standard TE50/XR8 spec swaybars isn't very appealing. But lately, I've been considering an upgrade to Shockworks coilovers and I don't think the Whiteline bars would be a very good fit for them when chasing the best ride/performance compromise for daily use The rear bar is brillant though, I'd not hesitate to recommend it to anyone as it gives great grip and feel for the rear. It's a difficult install though, probably best to drop the IRS cradle altogether to fit it. I started on the medium setting but dropped it back to the softest option some time ago. |
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#17 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Apr 2015
Posts: 59
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Thanks mate much appreciated. I was just going to replace the bushes, but this makes me want to look into another bar. I'll see how the bushes go I guess. Nonetheless it's a great bit of info that you've contributed here with the photos. The update is also good to read.
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Current: AUIII XR6 Silhouette 164kW Sedan 390xxx kms Past: AUII XR6 Silhouette 172kW VCT sedan 256xxxkms AUIII Forte Winter White 157kW sedan 201xxxkms
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