AU11 Air-con evaporator leaking oil

[Nunnya]

G'day all, first of all I want to say thanks to all concerned for the info posted in this forum, I visit often and have gained much.

But now I seek advice .... after using the air-con, there is liquid runs out from the evaporator drain tube. This is normal, I know.
But, when the water evaporates, oil in left.
I assume the oil is in the gas as a lubricant for the compressor.
If so, and I ignore it, it will eventually bugger the compressor.

So, what is my best plan of attack?
I do all my own maintenance and repairs, can do most things.
I'm guessing that the evaporator is holed, and needs to be replaced.
Is it a DIY job to remove/replace the evaporator then get the system regassed?

I would truly appreciate any advice.

Regards, Terry

[philfree]

Hi
Yer sounds like the eveporator is on the way out you must have a keen eye to pick it while the ac is still working. their is a safety function in the ac system so that when the pressure gets low the compressor gets turned off to save it altho normaly it isn't cold any way before this happnes you should be able to go to a ac place and get them to remove the last of the gas and supply you with a eveporator and i would also suggest a heater core while your going then you can change them and get it regassed. this is a dash out job tho.

[Nunnya]

Thanks for the reply philfree. Keen eye? Yes mate, I keep my eye on everything, never get caught unawares that way!

Air-con still works perfectly, but it's only a matter of time before it crashes I reckon.
The dash out bit is scary, not a job for the shed then?
Good suggestion of yours about the heater, I'll do that.
Same as the radiator, if you go to the trouble of taking it out, for an extra $40, might as well replace the drive belt while ya there!

Regards, Terry

[mongrelEF]

Dash out isn't too scary, you'll want a 13mm, 10mm, and 8mm ratchet (preferably 3/8 drive) and a couple of extensions, also a long shaft Phillips head screwdriver and a very stubby Phillips head screwdriver and a 3mm (from memory) hex key.

Two hex key screws at each end hold down the plate containing the demister vents. Under that will be a row of 5 8mm bolts across the top of the dash. Undo them all but leave the centre one fingertight. Also there will be a 10mm earth bolt near the centre one. take the black earth wires off it.

At each end of the dash, at the bottom behind the kick panels, there will be a black metal bracket to the A pillar. Remove the 10mm bolt to the A pillar. Also remove the glove box by folding it open (more than normal) and lifting it off the hinge pins.
Now you need to remove the centre console. There will be a screw through each side by the seatbelt clips, and two under the carpet inside the compartment. The shifter will need to come out, too. My memory is a little hazy but the shifter grip should unscrew and then the surround should clip off. You'll need to move the lever back and forth to get it up. Then you should be able to remove the coin tray under the radio (stubby Phillips), unplug the centre console, and remove it.

Now you can get at the two 10mm bolts that secure the dash at the lower centre; they will be either side of the transmission tunnel near the floor. At this point, the only things holding the dash in are the bolt you left earlier and the steering column. To drop the column, take off the covers with the Phillips. Now you will see two gold or silver nuts directly under the dash cluster. Undo them with the 13mm socket, and the column will drop.

*note* Always support the column! Allowing it to hang will damage the bearings at the bottom!

Now it's just the wiring. Unplug the column, then take out the top dash bolt from earlier and allow the dash to sag forwards. With care, you should now be able to get behind it and undo the wiring on both sides of the car. Also on the passenger side you will find a cluster of vacuum hoses that plug into the heater box, and a cable that runs from the dash and connects to the heater box just on the left hand side of the transmission tunnel. That is secured by a Phillips screw and a tin clip which will snap up and away from the heater box easily.

Now you can get the missus to grab an end and help you lift the dash out of the car!

[mik]

Originally Posted by Nunnya

Thanks for the reply philfree. Keen eye? Yes mate, I keep my eye on everything, never get caught unawares that way!

Air-con still works perfectly, but it's only a matter of time before it crashes I reckon.
The dash out bit is scary, not a job for the shed then?
Good suggestion of yours about the heater, I'll do that.
Same as the radiator, if you go to the trouble of taking it out, for an extra $40, might as well replace the drive belt while ya there!

Regards, Terry

i`ve done the dash out job, the question i ask is how much of a masochist are you , after doing the job once, this one i would happily pay someone $1000 buks to do it for me while i luxuriate at the beach/pub/orgy,etc,etc,
if your not young and pliable it`s even less fun, the job is`nt that hard , but it`s pretty tedious and time consuming, if you need the car in a hurry, i would let a pro do it, and you can root stuff up if your not careful, like the clock spring on the steering column, not to mention end up with a solitary loose wire in the dash rattling over a certain bump if you are unlucky(don`t ask me how i know that one :( ), good luck whichever way you go.

[Nunnya]

Excellent explanation mongrelEF, I appreciate you for taking the time to write it for me. I've done similar on a Commodore, so it's not beyond me.
You've given me the confidence to have a go.

And mik, I take your point and thank you for it. I'll ring around and get a few prices. I agree with your comment, but the dollars concern me.

Regards, Terry

[mongrelEF]

Good to hear! There aren't enough people out there anymore who are willing to have a crack. Basically as long as you're careful there's not much to break. You'll find the Falcon dash is a lot more solid than the Commodore one Just remember to support the steering column on the seat or a cardboard box, and you'll be fine.

[Nunnya]

Calling MongrelEF .... mate, I am a tad concerned, my Au11 is a Fairmont, given that it has all the "fruit" as they say, does that change anything?
For example, will disconnecting the battery for several hours upset any electronics?
Do I have to recalibrate the TPS, for example ... anything I should be aware of?

Is it ok to slowly bleed the air-con gas?

Should I replace the filter/drier or will it be ok?

Will I have remove the heater core? Therefore drain the cooling system?

Many unknowns, can you help with any more advice?

regards, Terry

[mik]

pretty sure legally your supposed to get the gas vacced out by the aircon guy, but some dudes just let it seep/leak out, you should blank the hoses off when you get it disconected to minimize moisture in the system, i just used a plastic with an elastic band on the hoses, i requested the mobile aircon guy replace the orifice tube and receiver dryer when i put mine back together, i wanted it to be working 110 % and as cold as it could possibly be, it`s good practice i think.

if the fairmont heater box is at all similar to the lower spec models it will be in 2 halves and sealed up held together with self tapers, if memory serves it took a fair effort to get mine apart because of the sealer, and must be sealed again or you may have a footwell with water in it from the condensation that gets in there even though there is a drain tube at the bottom of the box that goes through the firewall,
not sure if it`s possible to pull it in half in car and leave the heater core in place, if not you could disconnect the heater hoses at the firewall and plug them or bend them in half and hold them with cable ties so you keep most of your coolant , on my xr6 the the 2 cores sit side by side in the heater box, there is a sensor that sits in about the middle of the air con core that has to be removed from the core carefully, (don`t forget to replace it in the new core), check vent operations and stuff while your at it, any vacuum hoses or wiring plugs i thought may be lost or confuseable(plenty for me these days ) i put paper tags on or taped them where i could see them to help with reassembly.
hope that is some help.
mik

[Nunnya]

Thanks for all that info Mik, the more I can find out the better prepared I am.
Your original comment keeps ringing in my ears, and I do agree with you ...
but being a Mr Fixit, I'm inclined to have a go. Scary though!
But it will have to wait until after Xmas, both time and money is short right now.
I'll let you know how I get on.
Many thanks mate.
Regards, Terry

[Nunnya]

G'day Mik and MongrelEF ... I've been lucky enough to get a casual job driving trucks delivering soil, roadbase, sand etc.
Having a ball doing it too. Truck size depends on delivery site, if it's home sites, use small truck, if it's a building site, use large truck, and so on.

To be honest, I cannot let this opportunity pass, I need the money.
So the air-con is on hold for a while.
I value the advice from both of you, but I'll have to put the project on hold for now.
After Xmas, I will definitely take action.

Have to add, I'm an old fart, but very fit, trim, taut & terrific (as they say), so pulling the dash out is well within my capabilities.
I hope you blokes understand what I'm trying to say.

Regards, Terry

PS ... All the best for Xmas, Ho bloody Ho!

[mik]

all good mate, i hope the new job turns out a good one , and good Xmas to you too.
cheers mik.

[mongrelEF]

Same here mate, enjoyed driving back when i used to have two good knees Have a great Christmas, and just give us a holler when you want a hand!

[Nunnya]

Mik, mongrelEF, my friends, I found something tonight I'm very happy to report to you both......after a 50K drive this arvo, got the creeper out and crawled under the car to check the air-con drain pipe.
Found the same thing, a clear oily liquid in the water ... but wait ... there's more!
When I had the gas conversion done, I also fitted a vacuum-fed upper cylinder oil feed. Does it work? Dunno. Snake oil maybe, but time will tell.
However, the 3mm plastic tube feeding the oil into the throttle body was holed, and dribbling. The clear oil ran down the inner guard sub-frame and dripped into the water from the evaporator!

Problem solved!!! Hooray! It seems I do not have to pull the dash out, the evaporator is OK! All I have to do is replace the tubing and re-route it to prevent further abrasions.

But, again, I thank you both for your help and advice.
Hope we "speak" again some time.

Regards, Terry

[mongrelEF]

Well now, that's great news!
As to the valve saver - it does work, but wear difference over a couple hundred thousand km is minimal anyway. The lower stem guides would be maybe a touch more worn on a gas engine that never had the stuff, but never seen a rooted set of stem guides from a gas or petrol Falcon head.
Up to you what you make of that

[mik]

hahah good stuff, glad you don`t have to do that sod of a job, nice bit of detective work there , well done.
cheers mik .