WarmUp Method

[private9]

Originally Posted by LTDHO

You should not let your car warm up from idle as it causes the bores and the ring service to glase. A car should always we slowly driven. Driving it cold doesn't cause any damage. Unless you turn key and take it to red line, that will hurt!

I did just that every day in a Corolla for 4 years and even at 300,000 kays the thing just wouldn't die!

[XR6TickfordBoy]

If its a 90 model plus it shouldn't need warming up just get in and drive the thing easy til the temp gets up a bit! I've heard that holden Gen3's bust oil and valve seals if they thrash the motor when its cold, makes sense since it's a holden engine but you should be right with a Ford powerplant.

[red_hotxr6]

Originally Posted by private9

I did just that every day in a Corolla for 4 years and even at 300,000 kays the thing just wouldn't die!

That,s because toyota engines are d..n good.Hubby,s toyota lite ace engine is 424,000 plus and is still going strong.He takes a while to warm that up every morning before work, but i dont know if that is efi or not.

[Steffo]

Originally Posted by red_hotxr6

That,s because toyota engines are d..n good.Hubby,s toyota lite ace engine is 424,000 plus and is still going strong.He takes a while to warm that up every morning before work, but i dont know if that is efi or not.

It would be carb.

[red_hotxr6]

Yeah probably.

[ltd]

Well, as speculated before car manufacturers do not necessarily design the longest lasting cars or engines, their interest is leaving you satisfied enough to buy another car from them in the shortest possible time. Rather than have a car that dies too soon leaving a bad taste in your mouth, they do what they can to develop a customer base and then turn a profit. If ford built cars that weren't throw aways after 10 years then they would be out of business due to nobody needing to replace their cars.

In aviation and in perticular piston engines, you would never ever even contemplate taking off with a cold engine, or an engine which has not been running for atleast 5 minutes allowing the oil temperature to increase into the green zone (safe limits).
I could analyse more from the aviation side but reciprocating engines shit me.
Engines I deal with are far different, are in danger of overtemperature at startup if the fuel isn't introduced at the right time (older pratt & whitney models), and in most newer models even feature an "autostart" feature that diverts all of the power from the APU, turns the turbine to reach desired compressor pressure, fires the igniters, introduces the fuel and returns the engine to idle power. These engines also take approximately 20 seconds to be ready for maximum power. Sort of makes the whole car thing archaic.

[Wally]

I would suspect there are more considerations to prolonged idling of an aircraft engine, than just oil.

I must admit I have always hopped in my cars started the engine and driven. I also strip and rebuild my own engines and haven't noticed anything untoward in more than three decades of experience. When I run in a rebuilt I start it and drive like a thief to get the pressure behind the rings and work hardening of the cam lobes. This also reduces the opportunity for bore wash and consequent nasty sidewall loading wear, which also translates into bigend bearing eccentricity.

The worst case of pot ridging and crank pin wear I have ever seen was a Windsor. I suspect this is because of Miss Daisy driving style and far too cool running. An engine running at 60°C has five times the friction wear than if it was running at 93°C...even at 82°C its twice the wear rate.

[snortycorty]

When i had the cortina's, I usually had to sit in the car and once started hold the throttle at about 1500 - 2000rpm for a bit before they would idle by themselves, then i would choose my cd, get comfy let it warm up a bit then take off and take it fairly easy. They were awful in winter. They just wouldnt go unless they were all warm. In summer they were not so bad. I hated when I'd be running late though, get in, rev the crap out of it, and just flog it. It seemed to like that way better, but i felt bad doing it like that, and tried not to be late very often. (although it was a fun way to start the day hehe)

The laser i just get in and go. We have about a 200m dirt driveway so usually take it pretty easy along there, by the time you get to the road its all good and warm anyways.

Same with the ute just get in and go.

[Falc'man]

Originally Posted by Wally

I would suspect there are more considerations to prolonged idling of an aircraft engine, than just oil.

I must admit I have always hopped in my cars started the engine and driven. I also strip and rebuild my own engines and haven't noticed anything untoward in more than three decades of experience. When I run in a rebuilt I start it and drive like a thief to get the pressure behind the rings and work hardening of the cam lobes. This also reduces the opportunity for bore wash and consequent nasty sidewall loading wear, which also translates into bigend bearing eccentricity.

The worst case of pot ridging and crank pin wear I have ever seen was a Windsor. I suspect this is because of Miss Daisy driving style and far too cool running. An engine running at 60°C has five times the friction wear than if it was running at 93°C...even at 82°C its twice the wear rate.

Interesting stuff man.

I prefer to warm it up bit.

[sleekism]

I'm confused do I let my car idle or not???

I thought this thread was meant to answer questions?

I have always let my cars and bikes idle until they reach temperature and then drive VERY lightly as this as how I was brought up and it makes sense.

Are there any Mechanical Engineers or more specifically Ford engineers who can shed some light?