Is this normal??

[XITED_6]

i just recently sold 2 amps 2 subs 2 pair of splits & she goes a noticebly heaps better.
its caused by weight & electrical load.

[sixty9]

i'm going have to agree with all the users here, weight is seriously a big issue! i had my fat motherinlaw in my car the otherday and car was really sluggish, slow off the mark, no power, i was being overtaken by holdens!

once she's out of the car, she goes like a zirtec! Lightening fast!

but all in all im going have to go along with JC, sif amps and mdf box will add any significant factor in perfomance. unless of course you got a fat motherinlaw as explained as above

[kiwikid10]

My 2 cents worth.

Having a lot of experience in car audio, unless as JC said there is a huge 50Kg sub-box sound deadening, etc throughtout the car this will make bugger all difference.

1/ If the lights are dimming it is not the alternator, it is the battery's inability to supply enough current to the amps in time to keep with the bass beat. (I will assume that Joesau is playing big bass tracks to impress everybody within a 12 km radius) this can be cured by a capacitor, the rule of thumb here is for every 500 rms power of an amplifier you are running you should have 0.5 farad of capacitor.
Therefore for 1000 rms you should have a 1 farad cap, this will cure the headlight dimmimg problem.

2/ However the size of the power cable is probably the most overlooked item as well, if the amps are situated in the boot (most likely) then for the amount of rms power they are using the size of the cable should be 0 gauge, but as this is an expensive option this is where most people turn a blind eye and use 8 or 4 gauge as they can get a cheap amplifier wiring kit and most car audio salesmen concentrate on filling your budget with the best amps subs etc for your money, not the whole package otherwise you would be scared when you see the price of installation using correct cable. Note: if you dont have a big enough wiring kit then it is likely that you will have too small a fuse at the battery, which keeps blowing and requireing replacement due to the large power demands from the system.(Would you run standard injectors on a high horsepower engine?)

3/ A standard altenator will handle most upgraded systems the battery is the weak link, as the battery struggles to keep up with the bass it then lightens the load on the rest of the cars electrical sytem, this is mulitplied when at night you are using more power with headlights. An altenator will recharge the battery ok unless you have 4-5 big power amps then an upgraged altenator is the go but expect to pay big dollars for an aftermarket 1 such as stinger etc, or modify engine mounting points to fit a bigger stock one from another vehicle. I ran 2000 RMS in my VS commodore with no need for a upgraded altenator, I hade neons,fans,remote this and that TV,playstation, at full noise my lights never dimmed, performance suffered only from all the weight, 200+ Kgs LOL.

4/ Reset the ECU, they need to relearn driving style and if you drive soft after reconnecting thats what they set themselves to.

[james22]

Originally Posted by Smoked

1000w PMPO or RMS?
What brand amp?

A schneider & US Audio

[JoesAu]

i just weighed the box with amps 50kgs.. without including sound deadener. it cant be the weight its impossible. its the electrical load for sure plus the ecu being reset. i'll be buying a capacitor shortlly. and maybe a new battery