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11-06-2009, 03:57 PM | #31 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
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Dont negotiate a price until you drive the car.
Be prepared to walk away from a car that doesnt tick all the boxes (km, colour, drivetrain, etc). Remember you have the cash, you are in control. If you dont like it, tell them you are going to look at another. Dont try and play another car against theirs. Be firm with your price, but if they dont come to the table, just walk away. A few Dealers work together and you might cop a cheaper car with headaches to come down the track. And when you negotiate, dont take the free warranty chucked in or a free service when negotiating a price either!
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A philosopher is a person who finds a problem for every solution . :Reverend: 95 EF XR8, Advance headers, Vortech V2 t trim blower, Ported Cobra Manifold, Capa Switch Chip Eliminator. 307 rwhp 395 ft/lb 13.2 @ 105mph Now NA- AFR 165 heads, 1.6RR, Ported Cobra 269rwhp 14.2 ... needs stall and 4.11's 1977 CL Chrysler Panel Van, 360, 727 torqueflite auto soon to be restored. |
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11-06-2009, 03:59 PM | #32 | |||
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They can see you love the car, a deposit is a sale, if the price hasnt been negotiated before the sale, its the ticketed price. Also you will have little chance of getting the deposit back. Jason.
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A philosopher is a person who finds a problem for every solution . :Reverend: 95 EF XR8, Advance headers, Vortech V2 t trim blower, Ported Cobra Manifold, Capa Switch Chip Eliminator. 307 rwhp 395 ft/lb 13.2 @ 105mph Now NA- AFR 165 heads, 1.6RR, Ported Cobra 269rwhp 14.2 ... needs stall and 4.11's 1977 CL Chrysler Panel Van, 360, 727 torqueflite auto soon to be restored. |
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11-06-2009, 04:01 PM | #33 | |||||
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11-06-2009, 04:05 PM | #34 | ||
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Personally I wouldn't even deal with that guy at all for trying to pull this stuff.
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11-06-2009, 04:12 PM | #35 | |||
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Cheers, Anthony
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11-06-2009, 04:57 PM | #36 | ||||||
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11-06-2009, 05:22 PM | #37 | ||
Former BTIKD
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Sunny Downtown Wagga Wagga. NSW.
Posts: 53,197
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1# Listen to Dad
2# You dont HAVE to put a deposit on ANY car. 3# Even if you put a deposit down they can still sell the car to someone else and refund your deposit. 4# If you do give a deposit get something signed to the effect that the car will not be sold from under you. 5# Ring the dealer, give him your best offer and leave your contact number. Then it's up to him. 6# It's June. The end of the financial year, if his cars are not moving he'll be back on the phone to you the same day. 7# If it's a fairly large car yard the receptionist is often instructed to put all possible telephone sales onto the yards best (read high pressure) salesman.
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11-06-2009, 05:29 PM | #38 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
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one question mate are you or your dad handy with a spanner??
if not don't go for a car with so many K's. with in a year you will probably need -all four ball joints $100, -lower control arm bushes $150, -rear shocks $150, -front wheel bearings $250, -the rubber flex disc in drive shaft $250, -front and rear sway bar pins $200, -coils $250 thats almost $1500 then you get things like diff whine and general loose ness in drive train. the rough prices are parts only. this is what i'm guessing is needing attention now, what i would also do would probably double the amount i have put up. i would be making sure alot of this has already been done or is not about to go. look at a ba mk2 yes it has a 5 speed but also has some ford warranty remaining which is the only type of warranty i would take into account. like this here |
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11-06-2009, 05:49 PM | #39 | ||
Regular Member
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Posts: 53
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the majority of people on here are telling you not too buy this particular car...I'd spend a bit more time looking for a better example and be willing to travel.
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11-06-2009, 06:11 PM | #40 | ||||
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Alright, I'm not going to consider it anymore. I've found a nice looking BA which is manual, with 140,000km for $17,000 list price, Dad made an offer to him of $12,000 (the botched deal) and he said he'd email me some prices, they never replied. Should I go and ring them up tomorrow and discuss, then organise a test drive?
There is a problem with that BA XR6, its modded, has a sports exhaust and thats illegal under new P plate laws. In summary: - 192,000km is way too many Ks - Don't put a deposit down at all until you are certain you will buy - Test drive the car before you discuss pricing - Be prepared to walk out the door if they don't accept your offer - Need someone 30+ to do the talking or they won't believe me - Offer to pay cash - Find problems with the car in the test drive and use that to negotiate - Never tell them how much I am willing to pay
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11-06-2009, 06:20 PM | #41 | ||
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What mods were done to it to make it illegal for a P plater?
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11-06-2009, 06:20 PM | #42 | ||||
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"Sports exhaust". If that means aftermarket exhaust than that means illegal.
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11-06-2009, 07:11 PM | #43 | |||
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11-06-2009, 07:17 PM | #44 | |||
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11-06-2009, 07:20 PM | #45 | ||
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Mate I think you should tell the dealer to bring the car to you to test drive if he wants to sell it he will.
I honestly believe the dealer will sell it to you because you are not listening to what the other people are telling you THIS CAR IS TOO MANY $$$$ FOR TOO MANY K's |
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11-06-2009, 07:29 PM | #46 | |||||||
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Click me Still high prices, but I'll ring up tomorrow to see, if not then I'll give up on the BA/BFs.
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11-06-2009, 07:55 PM | #48 | ||||
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Thanks much mate, the dealer one looks good, but the private sale is actually an auto if you look at the pictures, that REALLY gives me the poops when people do that on purpose.
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11-06-2009, 08:01 PM | #49 | ||
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woops... sorry mate. I didn't really take a good look at the private one. Yeah, I hate it when people do that too :
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11-06-2009, 08:56 PM | #50 | |||
Performance Inc.
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: In a cave
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Don't ever seem too keen if you seem well yes it's ok but not exactly what I want dealers tend to sweeten the deal without you asking if you know what I mean. Even if you really want the car be a bit non comittal, play the game if you will. My trade inn last time climbed 3k from their original offer they said we cannot discount the car anymore etc....
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12-06-2009, 08:02 AM | #51 | |||
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When I was looking for a car many years ago, I was going with mates and couldn't get a single dealer to knock a single dollar off the price. Old man came along (who was a salesman) and knocked off $1000 on a $3500 car in the first minute. Grabbed me by the arm and we walked off, before we were able to step off the yard, sold - $2000. Took him along to my next 4 car purchases. ;) I'm able to do deals myself these days. I'd never put down money on a car I've never test driven. I never show over enthusiasm beyond.. 'well, this car is close to what I'm looking for but...' and tack on some negatives, even if they're bunk. I lowball to negotiate them down. If the car has been on the lot awhile, it's costing them money for it to sit there - keep your eyes open. But most importantly, never be scared to walk off the yard if you're not getting the deal YOU want. You're not buying a 1 off, plenty of other better cars out there for less money, guaranteed. |
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12-06-2009, 09:05 AM | #52 | ||||
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There's something no one else has mentioned either - have you been checking log books for a full service history? Also how long are you planning on keeping this car? That should influence your decision on how many kms on the clock you should be looking at. Think of the resale value if your not planning on keeping it more than 3 years (i.e go for low kms). If your keeping it long term (over 5 years) don't worry too much about kms rather look at overall condition. The other thing is you need to be very patient and wait for the right deal to come up - study the market and pounce when someone drops their price - this can take anywhere from 4 weeks to 3 months. At the moment the market is dead - hadrly any cars for sale and they are asking too much. I thought with GFC it would be the opposite but it appears no one wants to sell their used car in this market.
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12-06-2009, 11:33 AM | #53 | |||||
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Is that the purple BA XR6 in Yarrawonga? Thats about 250km away, google maps says a 3 hours drive. Unfortunately Dad won't take me there. Also, yeah I've been after cars with service history, I had an offer for a green BA XR6 on this forum, but it had no service books so no one knows if its even been serviced, that was $15,500. I'll be keeping the car for 4 years, until I get off my Ps and I can upgrade to something a bit more powerful. My cousin picked up his auto BA XR6 for $11,000, I thought that was a good deal, but I don't want an auto. Some people's cars I've been looking at, been on the market for months, then all of the sudden, they jump in price by $3000? If the car isn't selling at what you listed it at then, I don't think tacking on an extra $3000 is going to help you much. This was the case with a 2003 Honda Acord Euro Luxury I was looking at, also with a 1996 25th Anniversary Nissan 300ZX, originally he wanted $15,000 and it had damage to its front bar, I offered $11,000, he said no, then I offered $13,00, again no, then he raised the price from $15,000 to $17,500 and now its back down to $14,999 he even put it up on ebay twice and no one bought it, under the excuse "its rare because its a 25h anniversary model", whoopdie do, it came standard with a Stillen bodykit and a set of 17" wheels and a sticker with 25 on it, that makes it worth an extra $5000 over the other 50,000 300ZX's on the market <10K doesn't it?
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12-06-2009, 11:59 AM | #54 | ||||
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Sorry for double post, but what are fuel economy figures for BA/BF XR6s on the highway, 90% of my driving is in 100 zones. Dad seems to think that they use too much fuel blah blah blah "Insert small car here".
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12-06-2009, 02:41 PM | #55 | |||
BF MKII XR6
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and sadly your right about manuals being higher priced than autos...autos are a dime a dozen these days...when i was in the market for a car, i saw a 2006 manual with loads more Kays on the clock and in pretty bad shape sell for almost 3ks more than what i got my newer auto xr for...just be patient..it pays off trust me! Last edited by alter_EGOXR; 12-06-2009 at 02:53 PM. |
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12-06-2009, 08:50 PM | #56 | ||
Wheel Wally
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Ballarat
Posts: 883
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Daymoe it sounds like your really listening to what everyone is saying which is extremerly wise especially considering the advice that has been given which is golden!!!
Remeber time is a sellers enemy and a buyers tool. You MAY also want to consider a car broker, auctions or even ex-lease companies........ But why do you want a manuel so badly the autos especially the 6spds are VERY good. Also fuel economy I wil tell you our BF is cheaper to run than our focus and we live in Ballarat so like you 90% is country driving!
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12-06-2009, 09:23 PM | #57 | |||||
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12-06-2009, 10:50 PM | #58 | |||
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I gain the benefit of it being quicker off the mark, kinder on the juice and perfect blipping on downshift every time. |
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13-06-2009, 01:52 PM | #59 | ||
BF MKII XR6
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 681
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rodp is right... i wanted a manual too, however prices were a little steep for my liking..and i think this is where i think ford has done a really good job...when they introduced the ba back in 2002 they were smart to stick in a tip tronic auto in even the basic XT...its the smartest thing they ever did...
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14-06-2009, 09:05 PM | #60 | |||||
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Update on the BF, here is something I picked up on from another forum I frequent:
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