Project Casper AU / G&D – A New Evolution

[KOUPE76]

Good to hear she is coming along nicely, can't go wrong with the G&D set up as I know the time they have taken with your beast, can't wait to see it at the strip when eventually all mods are done.
Well done Casper and the G&D Crew. :Up_to_som

Mick

[Stav]

Dammit Casper finally the light has shone on the Caspermobile!! You are one lucky guy with that lovely grippy irs... Dont be afraid cain the dam thing. Punish it for not behaving in the past ,show it whos the master now!!! If you take it to the track tell it useless's stingray is behind it wanting to eat it so that it will rip a great time!!!

Oh and most important of all dont waste money on dunlop sp3000a's they shopuld all be recalled and remade into pencil rubbers.Because they probably perform best on paper removing lead!!Theres a tip for ya!!

[Orbit]

wow talk about dedication!
simply stunning casper!

[I6corp]

Cheering Casper, well done.

[loxxr6]

Shane, your car hasn't been run (qtr mile that is) since the histall (either of them) went in has it ?

[JC]

3500 high stall. Why are you building a straight line monster for the street? I don't see the point. A street car should have some manners, and launching at 3500 is, IMO, a bit over the top. But's it's your car. I can't wait for next year's thread saying you're sick of this hard launching beast and are going back to a more sensible 2500 or so converter. Or you will end up with a daily driver, and this car will be a once a week weapon.

[Casper]

Originally Posted by loxxr6

Shane, your car hasn't been run (qtr mile that is) since the histall (either of them) went in has it ?

Was run once with the old histall in pretty crappy conditions at Heathcote in Jan. Havent run the car at all since... but will very soon.

[Casper]

Originally Posted by JC

3500 high stall. Why are you building a straight line monster for the street? I don't see the point. A street car should have some manners, and launching at 3500 is, IMO, a bit over the top. But's it's your car. I can't wait for next year's thread saying you're sick of this hard launching beast and are going back to a more sensible 2500 or so converter. Or you will end up with a daily driver, and this car will be a once a week weapon.

Its actually suprisingly placid arounds the streets (at least to me). I drove it to work in peak hour traffic on Thur and Friday quite comfortably. Admittedly it is not everyones cup of tea but I could easily (and do) drive it every day from racing right down to just putting up the shops to grab some milk.

[DOC]

Sounds good so far Casper, Do you plan to run at the upcoming National's ?

Pete

[SpoolMan]

If you’re using a 3500rpm converter doesn’t mean you have to drive off at 3500 rpm, the converters they make these days are very streetable.
USER VX8255 has a 4500 rpm hi stall and this car and it's his daily driver. he would do 30,000 klm a year of normal driving.

[Casper]

Originally Posted by DOC

Sounds good so far Casper, Do you plan to run at the upcoming National's ?

Pete

Not sure at the moment. The car is ready for a run as it is and I'd like to but I may be on a week away with my wife in Tassie at the time for a long, LONG overdue holiday (about 9 years overdue) so I cant confirm.
Either way I plan to run the car before then anyhow to get an idea of how its going. Nothing special but we need to see if the car is on track for our goals.

If I'm not in Tassie though I'll certainly be at the Nats to catch up with some friends and have a good day.. I hate missing Heathcote events.

[JC]

Originally Posted by Casper

Its actually suprisingly placid arounds the streets (at least to me). I drove it to work in peak hour traffic on Thur and Friday quite comfortably. Admittedly it is not everyones cup of tea but I could easily (and do) drive it every day from racing right down to just putting up the shops to grab some milk.

It sounded a bit savage in your first update. Glad you're happy with it - is the missus still allowed to drive it? And how is it in the wet - must be a nightmare, at least until you get used to taking off on veeerrry light throttle.

I guess on the highway it would be OK too - the stall would only come into effect on takeoff and WOT kickdown? Tell me more - I may be interested in a hi-stall for mine (both), but I was thinking more around 2500 mark, as both perform family transport duties now that the twins are in booster seats.

Just on the box for a minute, didn't useless' first box die after the hi-stall? Is this what happens when the stall is changed? Did you have a trans cooler? From memory you did - but did it by-pass the radiator, or was it in series? Sorry about all the questions, but your car interests me a lot, as I want to do at least some of these things to mine (especially the wagon), but over a period of time ($$$$$).

[JC]

Originally Posted by SpoolMan

If you’re using a 3500rpm converter doesn’t mean you have to drive off at 3500 rpm, the converters they make these days are very streetable.
USER VX8255 has a 4500 rpm hi stall and this car and it's his daily driver. he would do 30,000 klm a year of normal driving.

OK, I'm now confused. This is how I think a converter works. The stock converter stalls at 1600 to 1800 rpm. What that means is that when you take off, the transmission effectively slips (but still engages) until those revs are reached, at which point full cohnverter rotation speed is achieved and the converter effectively becomes a solid input to the transmission, passing all available power from the engine to the transmission, and moving the car off quicker from that point & RPM.

So, if my understanding is correct, a 3500 hi-stall (or 4500 in the BA?) means the transmission effectively slips up to that point. Slipping = heat, so I'm not surprised it kills boxes. The way to minimise the heat build up is to get the engine up to stall speed ASAP, which means applying lots of throttle quickly to get the engine revving as fast as possible, and get the transmission/converter into lock-up position and beyond. ie, fast takeoffs are the result, but they are also what's required to keep the trans from overheating too much. So taking off slowly with a hi-stall is actually damaging to the box in the long run.

Of course, if my initial understanding is way off, then I need to do some more reading.

[Casper]

Originally Posted by JC

It sounded a bit savage in your first update. Glad you're happy with it - is the missus still allowed to drive it? And how is it in the wet - must be a nightmare, at least until you get used to taking off on veeerrry light throttle.

For anyone not accustomed to a hi stall it would be a big step, no doubt about it. I've had a 3000rpm stall for a while now so this is not that big a leap for me at all. Wife drove it today. She doesnt mind the histall at all but is not a big fan of the noise from the exhaust (it isnt quiet) and especially the suspension (its not really a cushy ride) at all. The histall is the least of her worries.
As for the wet, a histalled car is actually very easy to drive in the wet contrary to popular belief. So long as you are not nuts and just slam your foot into it (thats just asking for trouble) the slip in them allows for very gentle takeoffs without any wheelspin.

Originally Posted by JC

I guess on the highway it would be OK too - the stall would only come into effect on takeoff and WOT kickdown? Tell me more - I may be interested in a hi-stall for mine (both), but I was thinking more around 2500 mark, as both perform family transport duties now that the twins are in booster seats.

Its fine on the highway if you are used to it. They just need a bit more revs going up inclines. Apart from that its jsut normal. A 2500rpm stall would actually be almost unnoticable day to day except for quicker takeoffs from the lights. In the wet it would probably be easier to drive overall so long as you are not brutal with the throttle.

Originally Posted by JC

Just on the box for a minute, didn't useless' first box die after the hi-stall? Is this what happens when the stall is changed? Did you have a trans cooler? From memory you did - but did it by-pass the radiator, or was it in series? Sorry about all the questions, but your car interests me a lot, as I want to do at least some of these things to mine (especially the wagon), but over a period of time ($$$$$).

Yes, Useless had a box go on him although I'm not sure if it was the stall or not. Mine was not noticably dieing yet however the fluid was stuffed and the dyno proved it was slipping even at redline... not good. That was with a midsize trans cooler that I'm still running with this one with no major issues now. The trans tunnel doesnt get really hot like it used to either. Thats why I chose to go the whole hog and get this one custom made and strengthened. I cant say how much longer the trans had left in it but I wasnt prepared to risk it going bang and, as I wanted a bigger stall anyhow, it was the perfect time to get the whole thing done and ready for any future changes I throw at it.

[JC]

Thanks for all the info Casper. Yours should go like a rocket once you strap that blower on. LOL.

[Stav]

Originally Posted by JC

It.

Just on the box for a minute, didn't useless' first box die after the hi-stall? Is this what happens when the stall is changed? Did you have a trans cooler? ($$$$$).

Hahah JC I know where you are heading.You want one.
My gearbox died a savage and painfull death...cough cough cough!!!My gearbox did not cook.
My auto died because many months ago I blew a rear main box seal while engaging in some spirited driving against a WRX sti going up alfords point road going down to Menai. It just gave way and my tailshaft thrashed around inside the rear extension housing chewing it out.I drove it with oil peeing out for 20 kilometres at 40 kays to a tranny shop.They replaced the rear main seal and I drove off. 12months later it spat tranny fluid out of the breather.What happened was that the rear output shaft with the thrashing from 12 months earlier had caused premature failure of the main box and hence not hold pressure in the box itself. I can honestly say that I do believe that a not released shift kit which I was testing may have sent it over the edge.My car would kick sideways with the shift kit torturing my box and uni joints.So theres a bit more to it than people know. I now run a mild shift kit.
If you get a stallie though replace the oil frequently.My destroyed transmissions oil was black because the hi stall does cause alot of heat in there causing the oil to die much quicker.I have an oil cooler biger than most intercollers as well.
The wheelspin of the converter also relies on the tune.Before Croydon tuned the wagon it would not spin like this.I love it now much more better.However if I touch thr throttle more than 1/4 of the way in the wet it will spin. The wet is definately a speed limited place for me now. I have come to realise that power is a wonderful thing if it is respected or it will turn on you. If you have questions my phone number is 0414445444 .

[Casper]

well, now that this thread and the AU Build thread have basically become the same thing I'm going to close this one and continue the story where it belongs in the build area here:

http://www.fordforums.com.au/showthr...d=1#post839022