Rust in door jamb

cm29579 · 12-03-2016, 12:43 PM

Have recently (and it would seem all-too-late) noticed heavy rust in the rear passenger door of my '01 XR6. Rest of the car is immaculate, so I would really rather not have to buy a door off a wreck with an off-white compared to my still shiny white.

Photos are below. Assuming I get through rego inspection later in the year (same mechanic has never looked in the doors in 5+ years), and basically never open the door again, how long is this going to last? Any stop gap measures to prolong it a bit? Its so close to the window frame that I don't think it can be cut out, certainly not cheaply.

XC50077 · 12-03-2016, 01:22 PM

You could give it a good coat of deodorised fish oil and will probably stop it in its tracks. I had to replace the White boot on my AU2 SR because of a large rust patch under the leg of the wing, beater friend told me it was cheaper to just replace it so I found a white boot from AU3 for $200 and had it swapped over and buffed for $100 now you couldn't really pick any colour difference. That's the beauty of Winter White.

cm29579 · 12-03-2016, 01:29 PM

Sadly, its getting to a point, as much as I love it, that cosmetic issues are starting to crop up a lot. Mechanically, you cannot kill these things, so it still drives beautifully.

But the steering wheel horn pad, the roof lining, one of the boot struts, filthy air conditioning ducts and spitting out the grey foam, are all things that are starting to make me not want to spend anything on it that I don't have to. The suspension bushes are all shot, although on smooth roads its still brilliant, still gets 50,000 to a set of tyres with no alignment too, so no major issues underneath.

Once the LPG tank is out of 10 year date next year, it may be the end. Still find it miraculous that I'm on the original auto transmission at 246,000km. Smooth as the day I bought it, 8.5 years ago.

Will give the fish oil a try

XC50077 · 12-03-2016, 02:28 PM

Mine is only a 135k car and was hugely disappointed to find the rust on a seemingly perfect boot, the boot I replaced it with was not as good overall but she is a 15 year old car and still very presentable and hope to get to enjoy it for another 10 years.

cm29579 · 13-03-2016, 04:14 AM

They are a great car to drive, the XRs even more than the base models.

Driven a lot of km on the FG Mk II and FGX, and the AU is much nicer to drive, and more comfortable than either (obviously the FG - FGX are the same car minus the body)

uniacidz · 13-03-2016, 06:17 AM

That door is terminal

Get a new one

You like the car and praise it but don't want to spend money on it.
I don't get it

Sounds like your not actually respecting it and want to run it into the ground

Sent via HTC Velocity + [HolicsROM v1.3] [SWEEP2WAKE]

cm29579 · 13-03-2016, 08:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by uniacidz

That door is terminal

Get a new one

You like the car and praise it but don't want to spend money on it.
I don't get it

Sounds like your not actually respecting it and want to run it into the ground

Sent via HTC Velocity + [HolicsROM v1.3] [SWEEP2WAKE]

No, I simply don't throw money at something I don't need to.
Cost me $9,100 in 2007. Have never had to spend money on it, for anything. Would be fools money to spend on it at this point, when new ones can be had with half to even 1/3 the mileage for around $5,000. Or a BF MkII for about the same. And on top of that I only do 9,000km a year.

I live 50 metres from the beach (and have been here for 5 years), if I'm going to chase rust around, its going to be an expensive way to keep it on the road.

Im simply asking for ideas on prolonging it rather than replacing it right now. Had it been the rear driver side door I would have spotted it much sooner, but the rear left door is hardly ever opened.

Bill M · 13-03-2016, 09:07 AM

From the first photo there is also rust in the door skin seam so I agree with previous members in saying that door is scrap. You can try fish oil preservative but at 50 metres from the beach this is the beginning of the end.

Dezza · 13-03-2016, 10:05 AM

I was in the same boat with my AU (also winter white). The engine and gearbox was at 300,000 and still running nicely but the rust was getting out of hand. I replaced the bootlid because it was rusting at the bottom, but then I had a rust patch come up on the door a-pillar, a heap of it on the c-pillar, some nasty rust on the roof behind the door rubber, and a heap inside the right rear door. Then my aircon failed, it was the final nail in the coffin for the old AU. It would have been a dash out job to fix, so it was time to upgrade. Mechanically it was a bloody good car but the body was stuffed.

uniacidz · 13-03-2016, 10:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cm29579

No, I simply don't throw money at something I don't need to.
Cost me $9,100 in 2007. Have never had to spend money on it, for anything. Would be fools money to spend on it at this point, when new ones can be had with half to even 1/3 the mileage for around $5,000. Or a BF MkII for about the same. And on top of that I only do 9,000km a year.

I live 50 metres from the beach (and have been here for 5 years), if I'm going to chase rust around, its going to be an expensive way to keep it on the road.

Im simply asking for ideas on prolonging it rather than replacing it right now. Had it been the rear driver side door I would have spotted it much sooner, but the rear left door is hardly ever opened.

Only calling it how i see it, based on provided info and without emotion.

Door does need replacing, due to structural rust damage.
Doors for part of the structural integrity of the car if it was to roll over in a accident.

As for longevity overall, can try Electronic Rust Protection.

I have used in my EL XR6, seemed to work, Mums Subaru Outback 2004 also 50metres from beach has it and no rust at all and the car gets salted everyday as you would know and all she does is rinse off the car every few days.

You are correct in that newer cars have depreciated alot and within reach.

Up to you

cm29579 · 13-03-2016, 11:35 AM

uniacidz -

Normally I would just fix everything as it came up, but this car has been very unique for me. I had been through 6 Falcons in the space of about 5 years before buying this one. They were problematic in their own ways, especially the ED XR6 before the AUII.

This one had had so few problems, that over the years I just decided to stick with my plan, of only fixing something that was a necessity - wheel bearings, tyres, oil every 7-10,000, and transmission oil changes.

The car itself is immaculate, inside out. Im quite embarrassed I never saw this rust, especially since my day job is a car detailer. While I do always chamois doorjambs on customer cars, I never have with mine, or I would have seen it years ago.

I will probably just leave this until it needs a new door (ie the door flies open because the latch no longer seals). I'm not sure of Pick and Payless' policy on doors ($80 for shell only), if I need to take it off a wreck its going to be a hassle. I would hope the XR doorskin fits easily on a base model inner door.

Id still rather drive an AU II/III over a BF. I think the AU XR will be quite expensive on the used market within 3-4 years, once they are no longer in abundance. They (all of them - Forte/XR/Fairmont) were/are so reliable that they are by far the most common older Falcon still around. The EL XR, another classic shape, is quite rare now, and still looks awesome on the road.

mcfly94 · 13-03-2016, 12:44 PM

Change the door, doors are cheap and so are painting them!

**Whoosha** · 15-03-2016, 11:15 PM

They are a aging Car there are a few main spots to check for rust some more obvious and serious than others. Boot is fairly common, boot strut anchor point, inner sill just behind jacking point both sides , Doors as yours is yours,remove the body door rubber all the way past the screen, nasty crap in there escape any of the majors from there any youll be going good

needaXYGT · 16-03-2016, 11:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Whoosha

They are a aging Car there are a few main spots to check for rust some more obvious and serious than others. Boot is fairly common, boot strut anchor point, inner sill just behind jacking point both sides , Doors as yours is yours,remove the body door rubber all the way past the screen, nasty crap in there escape any of the majors from there any youll be going good

Iv found rust under the front door seal just beside the bottom corners of the windscreen. Has anyone else had this and been successful in repairs?
Cheers.

mcfly94 · 17-03-2016, 12:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by needaXYGT

Iv found rust under the front door seal just beside the bottom corners of the windscreen. Has anyone else had this and been successful in repairs?
Cheers.

Nothing that cant be fixed mate, AU's are bad for rust my boot ball rivets has rusted, light surface rust under sill covers, along seam sealer in boot, inside boot joins, rear dog leg.

Au's have it even if they have been looked after.

Mine hasn't got any worse in the year+ I've owned because i maintain it, id like to get it fixed soon so its not much metal out jobs.

**Whoosha** · 17-03-2016, 05:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by needaXYGT

Iv found rust under the front door seal just beside the bottom corners of the windscreen. Has anyone else had this and been successful in repairs?
Cheers.

Just hit it with a wire brush in a drill treat it with rust kill and a coat of Gal paint that should stop it providing there not bloody great holes any ware

needaXYGT · 18-03-2016, 12:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Whoosha

Just hit it with a wire brush in a drill treat it with rust kill and a coat of Gal paint that should stop it providing there not bloody great holes any ware

Unfortuently, that whole seam in the corner has rusted right through and gone flakey. Would have to be cut out. Would need attention from someone with more sheet metal experience. Bummer.

cm29579 · 19-03-2016, 01:26 PM

The mounts for the boot strut apparently is very common, mine went over a year ago, the mechanic didn't care about it. I think if you have a good relationship with whomever does your pink slip, then some of it can slide as they won't go over it with a glaring eye.

My strut literally popped out of the socket, a nice rusted hole at the bottom.

Yamonda · 19-03-2016, 01:48 PM

Man i feel lucky my AU lived in Canberra for 13 years of it's life, i am yet to find a spot of rust anywhere

. Now living in Sydney near the coast though which sucks a bit but i'm spraying fish oil in places they normally rust.

mik · 20-03-2016, 01:54 AM

I would throw another door on it mate, the old Au will probably chug on for another good few years , buying any second hand car your up for the usual costs rwc, rego,etc,etc , plus replacing a short time after buying the car all the dodgey parts that you dont know the history of and are possibly going to fail soon that the previous owner hasn't told you about.

cm29579 · 20-03-2016, 09:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mik

I would throw another door on it mate, the old Au will probably chug on for another good few years , buying any second hand car your up for the usual costs rwc, rego,etc,etc , plus replacing a short time after buying the car all the dodgey parts that you dont know the history of and are possibly going to fail soon that the previous owner hasn't told you about.

Kind of in a holding pattern; I've been waiting for the transmission to go for years! First Falcon I have owned that got to 200,000 on the original. Shows no signs of wear so far, and yes, the AU is a particularly hard Falcon to think of parting with. Always figured I would get rid of it when the auto went, as my experience with reconditioned boxes has not been good, and its expensive.

If a fairly well painted white door pops up ill certainly grab it.

Also in total agreement re parts knowledge of the car you own, as opposed to buying a random. I have 8.5 years of knowledge of my own car.