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Old 27-06-2010, 06:34 PM   #31
azza11
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Monty have you thought about the diameter of the stallie? As in 8-10" etc. Is it loose or tight?

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Old 27-06-2010, 06:53 PM   #32
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My biggest problem is I can't understand why it flicks up to 3000rpm while driving but won't stall that high on take off
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Old 27-06-2010, 07:50 PM   #33
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Azza, the TCI one was large, I think 10 inch, the red diamond one 8 inch.
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Old 27-06-2010, 08:04 PM   #34
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Did you notice much difference? my mate had his TCI redone at Red Diamond, it was a 5200 stall and was changed to 4500 when the car was dynoed. It pb'ed with the smaller converter, it seemed to suit the transbrake better as the tb msd chip was 4500 as well. Car ran a 260 at 50 duration cam with 636 lift. Clevo and Glide.
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Old 28-06-2010, 03:11 AM   #35
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The smaller one is much much more aggresive. I ran the same time at the drags, but with a different tune in it, so not really a good comparison, although on the street, it is much flareier, will light up the wheels very easy from a rolling start, and chew fuel like a Veyron
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Old 29-06-2010, 01:13 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stattic
My biggest problem is I can't understand why it flicks up to 3000rpm while driving but won't stall that high on take off
You can always try using the Brake and Handbrake at the same time

Tell us what it stalls to then
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Old 29-06-2010, 03:00 PM   #37
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It breaks traction around 2750-2800rpm with the handbrake on. Can this damage my diff using the handbrake as such because it's on the right side?
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Old 29-06-2010, 03:03 PM   #38
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If your not getting the 3000rpm stall of the line then there more than likely not enough torque in the engine to get it to come up.If its a 10inch then its even harder again.
Im suprised no one has mentioned this allready.
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Old 29-06-2010, 03:07 PM   #39
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But why does it lock up? I would have thought more torque would be putting more pressure on the brakes. This is so confusing haha. I happy with what I get put of mine tho !
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Old 29-06-2010, 03:17 PM   #40
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Sounds like more rear brake is needed aswell.Install a line lock for consistancy,doesnt take long to learn how to use.
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Old 29-06-2010, 03:30 PM   #41
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8" and loose, 3800 rpm. Line pressure is not to be overlooked either.

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Old 29-06-2010, 04:44 PM   #42
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Well I know my lines pressure is up very high and I've got crappy s1 brakes that need a service so maybe I can squeeze a bit more out of it... But I'm tipping the trans pressure gives a bit more driveability. Why would these things not affect stall speed
when it stalls up as you drive? Brakes obviously won't but lines pressure?
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Old 29-06-2010, 05:31 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by azza11
8" and loose, 3800 rpm. Line pressure is not to be overlooked either.

AZZA

I dont get what this means, can you explain it a little better?

As for using brake and handbrake, I still just get wheelspin from 2200, lol.
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Old 29-06-2010, 05:40 PM   #44
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He means 8" and very loose,feels like its slipping under 3000rpm,foot on brake flash convertor and its all their.Line pressure would be whats going on in the braking system,another key to realiability.

Off the shelf convertors under 3000rpm generally still lockup somewhat down low giving driveability.My 4000prm unit in the VH is tight enought to use only 1500rpm to get up to any speed but that was specified for that and consequently was not able to get more than 3400 under brakes.

Your unit stattic sounds like a good compramise for street duties and may need to be opened up for more stall(if it can).

I recon you AU guys need 4.11s at a minimum to for killer times as Ive noticed yous all have 3.9 pretty much.
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Old 29-06-2010, 05:43 PM   #45
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Not many of us have gone down the quarter remember.. I'd hazard a guess and say I'd have an ok 60ft if I can get traction but ive still got plenty of room for power mods before I give up and get 4.11s lol
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Old 29-06-2010, 05:58 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gilmore
He means 8" and very loose,feels like its slipping under 3000rpm,foot on brake flash convertor and its all their.Line pressure would be whats going on in the braking system,another key to realiability.

Off the shelf convertors under 3000rpm generally still lockup somewhat down low giving driveability.My 4000prm unit in the VH is tight enought to use only 1500rpm to get up to any speed but that was specified for that and consequently was not able to get more than 3400 under brakes.

Your unit stattic sounds like a good compramise for street duties and may need to be opened up for more stall(if it can).

I recon you AU guys need 4.11s at a minimum to for killer times as Ive noticed yous all have 3.9 pretty much.
Spot on mate , Josh you have to take mine for a fang?
My 3000 stall cost $300 from melva and my best on street tyres is 1.92. I also have a Convertor Shop 4000 stall WITH lock up function, that best 60 was 1.7 something on a 13.2 pass , a set up like this is dangerous in the wet with my spool diff.
Lucky i can remove and replace my box in under 2 hours start to finish, because my 3000 stall will be redundant very soon ;)

You are always welcome for a test drive my friend, see ya tomorrow night ??
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Old 12-07-2010, 02:18 PM   #47
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Also with Stall Convertors that no one has mentioned:-

The higher the stall the higher the rpm will be when you change gears
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Old 12-07-2010, 02:54 PM   #48
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Hadn't noticed I don't think my car drops far below 3k flat out into second. Maybe makes a bigger difference for an e series with 4k shift point but I'm assuming yours is higher than that lol
or are you saying the slips up rpm during changes? One thing, I just LOVE being able to overtake at 60-70kph without waiting until it revs a bit through 2nd lol
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Old 12-07-2010, 05:03 PM   #49
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Your stall needs to be at 500rpm lower than your maximum torque rpm number. If max torque was say at 4300 rpm then yes a 3800 would be appropiate. It is better to have a dyno sheet for the stall converter guy.

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Old 24-07-2010, 10:31 AM   #50
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Well, I fixed my stalling issue, now stalling to 2800-3000rpm on the spot no problems.
Im a little embarrassed to say what the issue was, so I want to hear what others think it was
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Old 24-07-2010, 12:05 PM   #51
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Oh the suspense lol. Were all probably doing it!
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Old 24-07-2010, 01:36 PM   #52
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It has something to do with a totally unrelated part, that is needed to produce stall....


Ok, I tightened my handbrake. That is all.

What was happening, with my 3.9 LSD, the handbrake barely worked (tested at 14%) so when I tried stalling it with handbrake, and foot brake, it would still over power the rear wheels. Or it would grip and push the front wheels skidding along the ground.
With the 3.08 s/s diff thats in it, I decided to have a go at stalling it up this morning, it has a really tight handbrake, and it just sits there njicely at around 2900-3000rpm. Tried it 2 times more, and once on the way home and it works fine. Now to do a few more mods, then back to the drags, this should push me a fair bit closer to that 13 mark.
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Old 24-07-2010, 07:36 PM   #53
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Cool might have to try that but mine might be not too bad
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Old 29-10-2010, 02:45 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Monty
Ok, I tightened my handbrake. That is all.
LOL whoopsee
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