Crow Cams

TheSneakiness · 05-12-2005, 11:37 AM

Anyone had experience with Crow Cams in AUs?

They seem to make power down low (900-3500 rpm) without computer mods (according to their website).

hamo · 05-12-2005, 01:07 PM

i'm running a crow cam in the AU, not sure on the specs though. car makes very good power - 97.66mph. i'm running unichip too

TheSneakiness · 05-12-2005, 01:09 PM

Think I might get in touch with them. Not sure how it will run on gas though, we'll just have to wait and see.

Thanks Hamo.

**Mechan1k** · 06-12-2005, 12:18 AM

Joe from Crescent Motorsport in Sydney is currently designing an LPG cam for the AU ... based on his Stage 2 cam for the petrol E-series (for power output ... and low down torque).

Hoping to see something after Xmas about it .... he's a busy guy.

**Stav** · 06-12-2005, 07:07 AM

Crow cams have seen another forum members AU do a 14.9 in an auto.Ifyou get the cam right ,the car will go better.It is the heart of the engine.Also do be stupid like me and fork out money for the edit yet.A unichip has proven to be a better option with up to .3 seconds difference quicker.Until I see mine getting running right I will tell it how it is.This may well have robbed me of 14's the other day when I ran the unichip on the last run of the day after reinstalling standard fords tune.

First do your mods and then get it tuned.

TheSneakiness · 06-12-2005, 11:09 AM

Useless, I was thinking that I get a cam in before it goes in for the Unichip next year. I'm hoping that a Crow cam/Unichip combo will net me 210rwhp mark I'm after.

loxxr6 · 06-12-2005, 08:53 PM

I'd definately do the chip option after you've done your other mods. It saves you having to retune the chip (and money) if you change something else later.

**Stav** · 06-12-2005, 09:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AUII_SE_Ute

Useless, I was thinking that I get a cam in before it goes in for the Unichip next year. I'm hoping that a Crow cam/Unichip combo will net me 210rwhp mark I'm after.

Dont get too hung up on numbers from dynos.Most are different.Even on the same dyno numbers can change. What counts is how it actually goes.How quick it is per unit of time? In saying that I do believe that we need a genuine 145 to 160 rwkws for a 14 second pass and most importantly of all a fat power curve below peak. Some dyno kings make peak power where it cant be really used.If you chose a dyno..stick to it always.Dont go to anyone else.That way you will have a better idea of how it goes.
The best dyno is a timing device to see how the car reacts to mods and if you are getting it right.This is the only dyno I will pay attention to anymore .

Casper · 07-12-2005, 09:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by useless

In saying that I do believe that we need a genuine 145 to 160 rwkws for a 14 second pass

I disagree. I havent got 145rwkw.. my car is an auto and heavier than most I6 AU's (wagons excepted but not by much).
I think too much is placed on "outright" power to get a decent I6 time (any 14.xx pass is a decent I6 time in my books).
Throwing in a cam usually leads to a car that gets into its powerband later in the rpm range. This alone is great for mph.. but is matched by sluggish takeoff.
A balance is needed. Power is good of course but if its not matched to a decent drivetrain setup (running 3.08 gears and a stock auto etc) and tyres/ suspension that can make use of it, it will be effectively redundant. Stav, you of all people know this.

Get the cam by all means but look at everything else too..

TheSneakiness · 07-12-2005, 09:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Casper

Get the cam by all means but look at everything else too..

Well, there also a 3.45:1 LSD from an AU XR6 I have on the ute, shocks need replacing, but other than that, can't see anything else that I may need.

Casper · 07-12-2005, 09:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AUII_SE_Ute

Well, there also a 3.45:1 LSD from an AU XR6 I have on the ute, shocks need replacing, but other than that, can't see anything else that I may need.

auto or manual?
If its an auto look at the stall.. if its a manual look at the clutch because it will fry if its stock doing hard launches.

Also look at suspension, tyres and general grip..

Basically, what I have found is that the 1/4 mile is "launch" dependant. The better the launch, the better the time (within reason). If you can get the car off the line hard.. the ET willbe as good as the car can get. Most people seem to focus totally on power.. but its just one of many areas to work on.
I've found out the hard way with the VCT that sometimes there is no "easy" cam change so I've had to look at everything else. What I've discovered is that gearing, suspension and grip can actually make as much, if not more, impact as throwing another 20kw at the engine. Now I've gone down this path and got some results I can throw that 20kw at the engine at a later date and make it all work together.

TheSneakiness · 07-12-2005, 10:00 AM

Yeah, I was thinking about the auto. Maybe grabbing a 2500 stall from somewhere. This ute is my daily driver, so I've gotta keep some economy in it.

Casper · 07-12-2005, 10:10 AM

A Jmm hi stall converter will increase fuel usage between 5 and 10% in normal daily driving. On LPG that would be nothing really.. nothing expensive anyhow. The benefits are awesome

TheSneakiness · 07-12-2005, 10:13 AM

You get a transmission cooler with the JMM one too, is that right?

Casper · 07-12-2005, 10:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AUII_SE_Ute

You get a transmission cooler with the JMM one too, is that right?

I did as part of the total install.. yes. You can buy the conveter seperately however so you would need to buy trans cooler on top of this.. plus fitting.

stiddy · 07-12-2005, 11:29 AM

do it!
Jmm stally, and trans cooler..

Ive been in 2 cars with stall converters in the past 2 weeks, and i love them..
i drive a manual, and always hated autos, but the stally/shift kit, has made me want to trade up the manual for an auto...

TheSneakiness · 07-12-2005, 11:39 AM

Then the next thing would be to get time off so I can take it down the strip. A 500 kay round trip doesn't exactly appeal to me during the week...

GreenMachine · 07-12-2005, 04:30 PM

Ya big girl, Kenny!

If you want to come down for a night's racing, crash at my place and head straight up to work the next morning...

TheSneakiness · 07-12-2005, 04:43 PM

Only if you race too Nick.

I know I'd have no hope of beating you.

I'd need to borrow a skid lid though.

EvilChief · 08-12-2005, 01:58 AM

My old engine had a Crow cam in it, ran a 15.2 auto with stocko open 3.08 ...

then changed to a manual with a 9" and 3.7 LSD ... ran a 14.9 ... the 9" let me down big time as its a very heavy item

however i used to have a custom chip in it (wont say which one), but i gained a whopping 1kw and a slighlt smoother idle, HOWEVER it got it managed to stall teh car in full drive and throw enough errors, in order for the car to be unable to restart. had to remove chip and reset ecu in order for car to work properly again.

ever since drive car on stock ecu without any dramas. must say the eecv is not such a bad ecu after all

**Mechan1k** · 10-12-2005, 09:39 AM

I have been looking itno getting a stally as well ... after hearing more and more good things ... maybe after I get the gearbox rebuilt and the oil cooler put in though ... get it all done properly in the one go.

SVR73 · 10-12-2005, 03:27 PM

A stage 2 crow cam for an AU forte plus quality 2.5 single exhaust equals excellent power but a slight loss in torque
No ECU changes needed but a unichip fitted after the cam is installed would achieve best results

With airbox and intake mods, an increase to 180kw + is possible and add a unichip and look out 190+
My forte with this cam actually idled lower than normal once it was fitted and the cam cuts in at 1500 and ends at 3500 from memory.
A stage 3 requires a computer chip from crow and doesn't cut in until at least 2500

Casper · 10-12-2005, 04:07 PM

The amount of legitimate 190+rwkw I6 4.0 Falcons in Australia that are practical and daily drivable could be counted on 2 hands.. or less. There is just no way a stage 2 crow cam is going to do anywhere near 180rwkw. I doubt a stage 3 would either. I've seen MANY MANY cammed I6 Falcons, I've yet to see ANY (and this includes the JMM EB) that crack 190rwkw NA. I'm sure there may be some but they are not "slap in a crow cam (or any cam for that matter" and presto" type setups.

**Mechan1k** · 10-12-2005, 04:18 PM

Even the ITS EF/EL (cant remember exact model) makes around the 180rwkw ... and idle is hella lumpy ... not sure on driveability either.

I would've thought that a Stage 2 would get you around the 150rwkw mark.

jonbays · 10-12-2005, 04:28 PM

I have not seen a normally aspirated falcon six that I would describe as a daily driven street car run over 200rwkw on any dyno I would call a fair reading dyno.

lots and lots of 115 to 125rwkw cars with exhaust and intake mods.

lots of of 125-135 exhaust and cam modded cars.

a fair no of 135-150 exhaust cam and chip modded cars.

and a few 150-175 exhaust cam and head and chip modded cars.

rodderz · 10-12-2005, 08:19 PM

Casper is dead right, you could focus on outright power, but one important factor that some people forget is that the more Hp you have, the more wheelspin you will have too, especially if the suspension and tyre setup hasnt changed. You could also in a way "simulate" more power by getting shorter diff gears that will get you going faster off the line and keep rpm's closer to the peak at the start of each gearchange

Some people like to stay away from the track till they get all mods done, then go to the track only to end up disappointed as they couldnt get off the line. By all means more power will be all good, but the car needs the setup to go with it. Obviously the greater the level of modification the greater need for setup

Casper · 10-12-2005, 08:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rodderz

Some people like to stay away from the track till they get all mods done, then go to the track only to end up disappointed as they couldnt get off the line. By all means more power will be all good, but the car needs the setup to go with it. Obviously the greater the level of modification the greater need for setup

This is so true, some do it all then go to the track with a predetermined time in their mind based on power numbers etc etc. Then when all the dust settles they find that it isnt what they expected. Maybe too much wheelspin or a cam that is a pig off the line or rear suspension that chatters like a monkey. Sometimes its not as exciting to do a day at the drags to test each mod but if you do you will soon fine if you are heading in the wrong direction as a total package. Quite often something will become apperent that just never seemed like it would be an issue and you can sort it before it becomes one.
Power (kw) is not everything.

**Stav** · 10-12-2005, 10:37 PM

This is true.I went to the track and found slicks could not launch my car but had me losing traction.Hence so many runs...stuffed up.

SpoolMan · 10-12-2005, 10:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by useless

This is true.I went to the track and found slicks could not launch my car but had me losing traction.Hence so many runs...stuffed up.

Hi Stav how old are your slicks?
If there more than 12 to 18 months there probably gone hard and are no good.
either that or you haven't got the power to warm them up properly are you doing a good Smokey?
Because your i have seen 10.50 @ 131mph on drag radials...
Full Drag slicks the sky is the limit...

EvilChief · 11-12-2005, 02:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SVR73

A stage 3 requires a computer chip from crow and doesn't cut in until at least 2500

incorrect

if tickford spec ecu is used no need for chip

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