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15-03-2013, 09:43 AM | #1 | ||
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Hi Guys, my daughter has a 2006 focus zetec with 80,000 on the clock that she only just purchased. The thing has a full ford service history and starts first time everytime when its cold but after it warms up it takes some cranking to get it started? any ideas would be appreciated because i am a carby and points type of guy all these sensors and stuff give me a headache
Cheers, Steve. |
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15-03-2013, 04:05 PM | #2 | ||
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Further info, i realised that during the few times i have driven it i was having issues with keeping a constant low rpm most difficult from a standing start. So it idles fine, nice and smooth but when you accelerate the tinyest bit it revs up in a hurry so lots of slipping the clutch to make a smooth takeoff. Now i believe the 2 things are related i think the accelerator has issues and these are a drive by wire thing arent they? So if the pot or whatever it is that generates the signal has worn, it could be the answer?
Thoughts? |
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15-03-2013, 04:20 PM | #3 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
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could also need the intake throttle cleaned as it can get full of greasy stuff from the Exhaust recycle system. Fairlty easy to remove and you buy c spray can of carby cleaner and go for it.
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15-03-2013, 07:01 PM | #4 | ||
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Ok i can understand the carby cleaner on the moving parts of the intake, but is that something that they dont do at a dealer service? Secondly is that the sort of thing to expect after 80,000km?
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15-03-2013, 07:48 PM | #5 | ||
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its an extra at dealer service and yes its probably warranted at 80,000klm The more klms the more frequently you may need to do it if that is the problem This is way cheaper than a problem with the accelerator/throttle sensors so worth a try first.
first |
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16-03-2013, 01:34 AM | #6 | ||
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I agree with marg99, I'd be removing the throttle body and giving it a good clean. And also making sure the air filter isn't clogged up either.
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16-03-2013, 10:24 AM | #7 | ||
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All the petrol 2 litre Focuses LS model do that. Treat it like a diesel when you are restarting when its hot. Turn the key to start and wait 20 seconds before firing it up usually works, we just sold our Ls and it always did it even though we had it log book serviced up until the 13500 when it wa sold.
This hot starting thing is a quirk, scroll through the Focus posts and you will find other comments. |
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16-03-2013, 10:25 AM | #8 | ||
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Make that 135000, and wa=was.
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16-03-2013, 01:08 PM | #9 | ||
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Cheers Guys, i will clean the throttle assembly and hope it is a straight forward operation i got this car for her because i thought it would be reliable ok what other little quirks can i expect guys and be gentleWhat p's me off is the stupid thing will start first time everytime when its cold i stop/started it 8 times in a row never missed a beat, so my head says it is a setting that changes between hot and cold idle conditions, someone knows what all the set conditions must be in each so it is a matter of testing every component in each of the hot and cold start circuits, it is booked in at Coffey Ford for tuesday it is still under warranty and i am about to become their worst nightmare
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16-03-2013, 01:11 PM | #10 | ||
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16-03-2013, 01:37 PM | #11 | ||
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Guys, What am i doing wrong? I went out to clean the intake and i cant even get the bonnet open i put the key in and turn it but nothing happens? This car is starting to slide down the list of impressive cars i have ever had....
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16-03-2013, 02:17 PM | #12 | ||
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Have you turned the key to the left...then to the right, ?
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16-03-2013, 02:44 PM | #13 | ||
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16-03-2013, 03:40 PM | #14 | ||
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SJG, the throttle body has 4 retaining bolts. It has a reusable gasket. After cleaning, re-torque the bolts to 10Nm / 7lbft.
Definitely worth checking the air filter while you're there. I've never had any hot start trouble. Only cold start, which ended up being my battery dying a slow death. |
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17-03-2013, 10:11 PM | #15 | |||
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Quote:
P.S do i need to disconnect any wires, any tricky connectors or such? I did notice the clamp holding the flexible air intake pipe to the throttlebody was so loose it was doing nothing i could slide that pipe straight off, easy as, so if it's meant to be sealed it wasn't Cheers for all the help guys, i am learning as fast as i can Steve. |
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18-03-2013, 08:58 AM | #16 | ||
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Even though my throttle body is non-standard, it is still a Ford product, nearly identical to the original throttle body, just with a bigger bore.
Since the Focus throttle body is drive-by-wire (as opposed to cable actuated), there is a wire connector to disconnect from the throttle body when you remove it. And the loose hose clamp situation is no good - I'd replace it with a new hose clamp. |
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18-03-2013, 10:02 AM | #17 | ||
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Larger throttle body = more air flow capability, did you re program your fuel curve or use different injectors and did you change camshafts to take advatage of the ability to flow more air or are these variable cam timing things that can be tweaked? Not that my daughter would like me making these mods to her carjust curious!
Cheers. |
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18-03-2013, 10:33 AM | #18 | ||
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Unfortunately no variable cam timing on these engines. Had a look at cams at one stage, but install costs were going to be huge, relative to the gains that could be had.
I just run a generic SCT tune from Bullet Performance Racing to take advantage of the intake / exhaust mods. |
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18-03-2013, 10:49 AM | #19 | |||
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Quote:
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18-03-2013, 02:45 PM | #20 | ||
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$800...wow.
Still, the Haynes manual has everything you need, except for a bottom end rebuild guide. |
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18-03-2013, 09:01 PM | #21 | ||
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just to add to this, mine has a warm start up issue to, intermittently.
as mentioned earlier, i just let it sit on acc for a few seconds and then she is right to go!
__________________
'06 LS Focus Hatch -2 1/4" Lukey Exhaust -RDA Slotted discs/Greenstuff pads -Rear Whiteline swaybay -Lenso 18's w/Kumho rubber -Tinted Windows |
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18-03-2013, 09:14 PM | #22 | ||
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Throttle body cleaned air filter (k&n) washed and oiledonly lost 1 torx screw from the air filter box cant find the damn thing so i will get another one along with the rubber nunger that goes in the engine cover one of those was missing too. Not sure if any issues were fixed but the accelerator still seems funky to me, as soon as you touch it the and then back off the revs go from 800 to 1400 and then slowly back to 800? cant get it to rise slowly to 1400 at all, its like 1400 is the starting point? blip the pedal you hear the air sucked in as it revs up quickly but it does not slow down straight away like its on a delay? See these are the things about modern cars that are not improvements, no way.
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18-03-2013, 09:28 PM | #23 | ||
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ok you clever guys, ill throw this in. The O2 sensor? they wear out, go out of calibration, but are required operating data, do they show an error code, or is it only if it fails, its only that this waiting with the power on seems like an O2 sensor heating up or playing up maybe? If this one does it still i will swap the sensor with a good one and see
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19-03-2013, 08:39 AM | #24 | ||
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The oxy sensor usually throws a code and the idle is rougher and car uses more fuel than usual. Expect them to fail only after about 80,000klm or more
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19-03-2013, 10:31 AM | #25 | ||
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your talking about a failed 02 sensor that will produce an error code, do they just fail though or slowly go bad? just asking. I am sure my issue is either the accelerator pedal or the throttle actuator motor/mechanism but i dont know what the operating tolerances are for these things without a factory workshop manual to get that data from, I can see i will have to take it to the dealer and just ***** and moan until they fix it.
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