little or no bass from sub

[brad`]

ok so i just reciently installed my sub and amp in my new car, and now the stick speakers in my car have more bass then my sub. I have checked the Gain and pass filters and still nothing. the sub works as i can feel it when i put my hand on it but barly, and the Amp light also comes on.

I have:
JVC 2-DIN DVD Player - KW-AVX710
600 watt 4-Channel Pionner AMP (not sure of the Ohmz)
MTX 12" 1000w Sub

I know the amp and sub work as they were really good in my old car really bass'y.

i dont know if its a fauly earthing job or what.. the only thing that has changed in the set up that i had in my old car, is that its a new H/U and new RCA/Power/Remote wire

Thanks Brad`

[zx10]

Does your headunit have a seperate sub volume control?

[brad`]

... no ...

[zx10]

If the headunit has 2 sets of rca preouts you could try swapping outputs. Are you running speakers off the amp or just the sub?

Could try switching channels on the amp.

Bottom line is ya need to isolate the problem. Only way to do that is to eliminate the working components.

Sorry dude, I know how annoying these problems can be.

[ayeyew]

Usually there is like a 'fade' kind of setting on the H/U

Perhaps you have the fade set all the way to the front?

[brad`]

hey i played around with the gain, pass filters on the sub today and nothing changed. I only have one RCA set on the back the rest are AV in (extra screens and crap) and still nothing, nah i have the Fade in the middle" thats why i was thinking maybe an earthing wire or something ?

[HLC]

Originally Posted by brad`

hey i played around with the gain, pass filters on the sub today and nothing changed. I only have one RCA set on the back the rest are AV in (extra screens and crap) and still nothing, nah i have the Fade in the middle" thats why i was thinking maybe an earthing wire or something ?

then check all your earthing wires???

[InfernoSR]

Fits double-sized dash openings (Double DIN)
DVD/CD/MP3/WAV/WMA/DIVX Receiver
RDS Tuner
MOS-FET 50W x 4 (20W RMS x 4)
Ready for Bluetooth® Wireless Technology (optional interface required)
Built-in 7-Inch Wide Monitor
Touch Panel
GIGA MP3 MULTI
WAV/MP3/WMA Compatible (DVD/CD)
DivX®/JPEG/MPEG1,2 Compatible (DVD/CD)
SD Card Slot
USB Input (Rear)
Ready for iPod (optional interface required)
CD Changer Ready
Dual Zone Capability
DAB Digital Radio Ready (optional module required)
DTS Digital Out/Dolby Digital/MPEG Audio
7-Band iEQ
2.5V Line Output Level
Output Terminals (Line x 1 pair/Composite Video)
Optical Digital Output
AV Input Terminals
Rear View Camera Ready (optional)

Answer... get a graphic equalizer, split the signal from 1 set of pre-outs to 3 sets of pre-outs... run seperate cables for the sub and speakers... better yet... get a dedicated amp and use the 4-channel to do the speakers...

Other wise... just run the sub OR speakers only from 1 set of Pre-outs... god i hate only 1 set of pre-outs on a H/U when you want multiple amps...

[brad`]

by dedicated you mean Mono-block ? or they diffrent ? and im not to good with audio stuff, how do i mean split it from 1 to 3 outs ?

[Peuty]

Are you sure that amp is getting power?

If it is, check all your wiring as stated and if it is all good, I would be looking at changing settings on your H/U.

[brad`]

hrm.. alright thanks ill have another play with it today and see if it helps any

[75van]

Some amps can turn on the 'on' indicator light of the amp if you supply power to the remote on terminal, but no power to the actual power terminal (hope that makes sense), which wouldn't give enough power to make the amp run the sub. You do have a separate 'direct to battery' positive wire for the amp don't you?

[brad`]

um.. ok the dumbness award goes to brad`, for not checking the fuse! the wire wasnt pushed against the fuse holder properly... and now im def coz my sound was up high when i turnd it back on. Sorry for not checking it earlier

thanks for all ur help 2

brad`

[InfernoSR]

Originally Posted by brad`

by dedicated you mean Mono-block ? or they diffrent ? and im not to good with audio stuff, how do i mean split it from 1 to 3 outs ?

1 seto of pe-outs only gives you limited tuning as it only controls 2 channels... a graphic equilser takes this info and splits it into 3 sets of Pre-outs, so you can have the front/rear & sub all seperatly controlable and tunable... and ensures the sub is ONLY run off a Low Pass...

And dedicating a seperate amp... i was reffering to simply adding an extra amp to control the sub... can be mono-block, 2 channel, 4 channel... what ever... :P

[Peuty]

Originally Posted by brad`

um.. ok the dumbness award goes to brad`, for not checking the fuse! the wire wasnt pushed against the fuse holder properly... and now im def coz my sound was up high when i turnd it back on. Sorry for not checking it earlier

thanks for all ur help 2

brad`

Thought as much. Good work finding the fault though.

[brad`]

thanks blueprint ill keep that in mind if i get another amp,
thanks for everyones help again

[Mechan1k]

Now by the sounds of it you will need to get a replacement interior rear view mirror ... as the stock one eventually falls off after a lot of bass ... well ... mine did in the ute :(

I also need a new component amp ... as the HPF that looks after the front 2 channels has died ... boooooo.

[brad`]

whats the deal with that, in my old car, 1987 MAzda 626 the rear view mirror had an extra pole comming off it to stop vibrations and when i had the subs going didnt move once, but like everyone else it nearly falls off in my new AU... anyone got any ideas how to stop it ? or tried anything to stop it ?

[Mechan1k]

Hee hee ... mine was good after the mirror broke off ... as I found that was one of the main rattles in the cabin when the bass was turned up ... with it removed it was much better (except when into the sun and it was shining exactly where the mirror used to be ... that's when I missed my rear view mirror).

I have a new one back in the ute now (along with a new windscreen) ... no rattle so far though ... which is good.

[Peuty]

In my old AU the grub screw that held the mirror to the window bracket came loose, hence making the mirror fall off. A bit of araldite fixed that problem!

[Mechan1k]

This is weird ... I have heard a few people talk about a grub screw .. but after looking at my broken mirror .. and the new replacement one ... there was no screw at all ... it was just a plate that locked into a metal clip that was glued directly to the windscreen.

[Mont5.0]

The grub screw was the fixing on older models. Every ford i have owned has had it except my AU.

[Mechan1k]

That explains it then ... must have been on AU1 and prior ... as my AU2 does have the grub screw. By the sounds of it though ... I'd prefer to have a grub screw to tighten it up though.