anyone tried 0w-40 in a six??

[rayner22]

Hey guys, just a quickie..
Anyone run Castrol Edge 0w-40 in a AU six before? Edge 10w-30 doesnt seem to get rid of the normal rattle as much as Formula R used to. So much for being an improvement on Formula R.

[buickman]

I ran the 5w-30w Shell helix in the Vct right up to 90,000kms then went to a 10w-40w oil . But I doubt you would want to run a 0w on a car with a few Kms.

[AU2PWR]

im using Nulon 15w-20 ATM ,Just changed it today

[GK]

Originally Posted by SR_AU

im using Nulon 15w-20 ATM ,Just changed it today

Is that a typo Daniel? Do you mean 15w/40?

GK

[Casper]

I use 5w-30w Shell helix in mine (136000kms) and its fine. Wouldn't go thinner though. Tried Mobil 0w in it once.. good oil but too thin.

[TURBOTAXI]

Ow-40 didnt work in my turbo AU. So thin that the oil rings didnt seal.

[chief]

I use the Mobil 1 10w - 30. The best oil I have used to date. Makes the engine feel smoother.

[Mechan1k]

I use 15W40 in the EGAS ute ... and 10W30 in the Territory.

[Bundy]

It didn't like my XR8, cost me complete rebuild and thats what the book said to use, pfft!!!
I didn't even bother with going to ford and jumping up and down being that I bought the ute 2nd hand and did everything by the book, they would have just laughed at me.
A mechanic and the engine both said it was the oil (too thin) due to the wear on the bearings an other internals. I'll use synthetic still but heavier grade of castrol.

[Faded_Mantis]

I use 5w-30 because it's what the oil cap says to use. would it be better for me to go up to say, 10w-30 or 10w-40?

Car has done 73 000km.

(I thought that the lower numbers were better?)

[rayner22]

yeah thx boys ill probly try some mobil 1 in her this time, dont think castrol is as good anymore..

[TwistedEL]

I'm putting some 10w50 in mine tomorrow 150k's we'll see how she takes it

[NeishaXR8_347]

The reason ford use such light weight oils is for fuel consumption not for protection, for ford to go a lighter grade it has to show a 2% de-crease in fuel consumption. The best oil that is around is prob mobil 1 5w-50, or if the budget can stretch some motul 15w-50. The 50w oil will give far superior protection at running temp and extreme loads, light weight oils are only really for shim bucket type engines like toyota and similar.

$50-80 is ok IMO for oil that will last you 5000kms, how much do you pay for fuel for that much kms, oil is the blood without it you have nothing.

[NeishaXR8_347]

Kinda off the subject, a guy came into my work a few weeks ago for some advice (toyota camry v6 2004) wanted to know why he got done from the EPA for blowing tons of smoke (burnout amounts), the car has 85,000kms on it and always "been serviced by toyota" and he went back to toyota and they have told him he needs a new engine because it wasnt run in properly. Now this guy went and got an oil sample and it turns out that the oil has never been changed from day 1 just added to with a filter change, Big court case he is sueing toyota apparantly but i dont know the out-come.

How can people do this and get away with it, it sucks that dealers say you must get it serviced here and look what they do to people.

[Cooper69S]

Originally Posted by buickman

I ran the 5w-30w Shell helix in the Vct right up to 90,000kms then went to a 10w-40w oil . But I doubt you would want to run a 0w on a car with a few Kms.

i may be missing something, so if i'm wrong please correct me... but its my understanding that the winter grade of oil doesn't matter that much in moderate climates like australia (is there anywhere in the country that gets so cold a 20w-xx oil won't flow?).

there is no practical difference between using a 0w-40, 10w-40 or 15w-40 once they're up to temp. they're all a 40 grade oil at running temp, and (contrary to what is sometimes claimed about 0w-xx or 5w-xx oil being too thin) regardless of whether its a 0w or 15w, it'll still be thicker when cold than hot.

cold 0w-40 is still thicker than hot 15w-40, so if hot 15w-40 oil is thick enough for your car, then 0w-40 oil will also be thick enough for your car

[Mr Hardware]

I'm pretty sure my au runs Prolube 25w60.
Nice and thick. Just what a motor with 600,000klms needs.

[buickman]

Originally Posted by Cooper69S

i may be missing something, so if i'm wrong please correct me... but its my understanding that the winter grade of oil doesn't matter that much in moderate climates like australia (is there anywhere in the country that gets so cold a 20w-xx oil won't flow?).

there is no practical difference between using a 0w-40, 10w-40 or 15w-40 once they're up to temp. they're all a 40 grade oil at running temp, and (contrary to what is sometimes claimed about 0w-xx or 5w-xx oil being too thin) regardless of whether its a 0w or 15w, it'll still be thicker when cold than hot.

cold 0w-40 is still thicker than hot 15w-40, so if hot 15w-40 oil is thick enough for your car, then 0w-40 oil will also be thick enough for your car

The reason ford use such light weight oils is for fuel consumption not for protection, for ford to go a lighter grade it has to show a 2% de-crease in fuel consumption

There is your answer.The modern mtrs have good tolerances in the ring sealing so they can use a 5w oil but as wear sets in the lighter oils could cause oil burn off.
If you compare a 20w-50w to a 0-40w one is like water & the other is like syrup. Someone might post up with a better descrption to help you. I've seen a R33 Nissian go on a dyno with 0w oil to get a 2-4kw gain out of the mtr.
But I would not use a 0w oil on a commuter car

[JC]

Originally Posted by rayner22

anyone tried 0w-40 in a six??

No but I've got 0-100 in 7.2 (in my XR8)

[NeishaXR8_347]

If your worried about it use Shell Plus its semi syn and 15w-50.

[rayner22]

Ended up using Fuchs 10w-30, and I'd highly recommend it, the rattle isnt as bad and the engine is idling heaps better. Acceleration is a lot better too

[FRDTUF]

all ways better sticking to what the manufactur states, after all their the ones spending alot of time & money testing what oil better suits each engine... in this case stick with a 10w30/10w40

[b2tf]

I use 15w40 GTX3 in the ute, wouldnt mind trying something else though. I'm just not sure what grade, any suggestions? I also have a cam in there.

[rayner22]

b2tf, i hate to admit it but in my opinion castrol just isn't what it used to be anymore, dunno y but ive only had problems since i started using edge instead of formula r.
But once again ill reccommend givin fuchs a go

[NeishaXR8_347]

Fuchs are a decent oil and so are MOTUL, Motul 15w-50 would be my choice.

[b2tf]

Got MOTUL on the shelf at work, might have to give it a go. Given Ive just bought a bottle of GTX3 though, it'll have to wait until the next change.

[Cooper69S]

Originally Posted by buickman

There is your answer.The modern mtrs have good tolerances in the ring sealing so they can use a 5w oil but as wear sets in the lighter oils could cause oil burn off.
If you compare a 20w-50w to a 0-40w one is like water & the other is like syrup. Someone might post up with a better descrption to help you. I've seen a R33 Nissian go on a dyno with 0w oil to get a 2-4kw gain out of the mtr.
But I would not use a 0w oil on a commuter car

i understand what you're trying to say but i think you're missing my point. for starters, theres no such thing as a 20w-50w oil or a 0-40w oil - it would be 20w-50 or 0w-40, and in the case of the 20w-50, the 20 refers to the oil's flow properties at 0 degrees celcius (ie at 0* the oil flows like a 20 grade oil) and the 50 is the viscosity at 100 degrees (running temperature) so the 20w (winter) rating of the oil is basically irrelevant once the engine is up to temp - you could just as well be using a 5w-50 or 15w-50 and and they'd be doing the same job.
of course when you pour the cold 20w-50 out of the bottle it will look a lot thicker than a 5w-50, but if you look at them both again as you drain them out of the hot engine, they'll both look the same because they're both 50 grade (and they'll both be thinner than the 5w-50 was when it was cold in the bottle) - so the benefit of a 5w-50 over a 20w-50 is that when its cold its a bit closer to its hot viscosity and will pump around the engine easier at startup.
btw i'm not suggesting you don't already know all this stuff, i'm just explaining what i was talking about in the other post...
running thicker oil than you need to does nothing but put extra load on your motor, wearing it out faster and causing a loss of power and increase in fuel consumption, so if you're car's designed for a 30 grade oil then you're better off using a 30 grade oil unless theres a REAL reason not to...

[Mr Hardware]

Cooper, you are right up to a point.

case in point. my brother works for castrol, so i know a little about oils.

he has a mint VL and has tried several different oils in his car.

0w-60, he would get tappet rattle for the first 5-10 seconds at cold start. this is because when the oil cooled, cos of the 0w factor, it all dripped back to the sump leaving no oil at the top of the motor. he runs 20w-50 now (catrol GTX2, naturally) and it ticks over like a gold watch.

running thicker oil than you need to does nothing but put extra load on your motor

how do you know what is thincker than your motor needs? If my AUII was brand spankers (<100,000klms) i would run 15w40, the recommended stuff. But cos she is a tired old taxi with 600,000klms on the clock, i run 25w60. A thicker oil is required cos the motor is worn. I could probably get away with 20w50 GTX2, but i prefer that bit of extra protection. Using oil a bit too thin is far more dangerous for your engine than a bit too thick is.

[Cooper69S]

Originally Posted by Mr Hardware

0w-60, he would get tappet rattle for the first 5-10 seconds at cold start. this is because when the oil cooled, cos of the 0w factor, it all dripped back to the sump leaving no oil at the top of the motor. he runs 20w-50 now (catrol GTX2, naturally) and it ticks over like a gold watch.

that sounds fair and reasonable, but that kind of scenario could also be used as a reason FOR using lighter oil grades - quicker to pump around the engine when cold - obviously not in his case though.

Originally Posted by Mr Hardware

how do you know what is thincker than your motor needs? If my AUII was brand spankers (<100,000klms) i would run 15w40, the recommended stuff. But cos she is a tired old taxi with 600,000klms on the clock, i run 25w60. A thicker oil is required cos the motor is worn. I could probably get away with 20w50 GTX2, but i prefer that bit of extra protection. Using oil a bit too thin is far more dangerous for your engine than a bit too thick is.

i was under the impression that you would know whether your motor is still able to run on the oil recommended by the factory by whether or not the engine burns any oil between service intervals - if your engine's not consuming oil isn't it fairly safe to assume that the original grade oil is still good to use?
obviously with 600k on the clock you've got higher k's than most people and the engine most likely is worn a bit, but my brother had a ef xr6 that he bought with 230k on it, started using 5w-40 synthetic shell helix ultra straight away and when he sold it with over 290k on it, it was still only using about 2-300 ml of oil per 5000km or thereabouts (well within the acceptable range) and still producing more power than most stock 4L's (135rwkw i think it was??)