Cheap Slotted Rotors - Just fitted

[The Dok]

Originally Posted by NeishaXR8_347

I have read somewhere that Brake shudder can be caused of incorrect tightening of the wheelnuts, when they are new they are, well should be perfect. If you tighten up one nut say 10nm more then another it can cause the disc to slightly go out of shape.
Even if its only out of shape 0.010" (strand of hair is 0.004") over time this will get worse and cause a shudder.

Same theory goes to people who tighten a flex plate with a rattle gun, it distorts the back flange on the crank and the rear main will leak almost certainly.

Shaun.

You may have read it here? Warped rotors

[NeishaXR8_347]

Originally Posted by The Dok

You may have read it here? Warped rotors

Your right Dok i did read it on here a while back and sure it was your Thread, but since then i have also read it on a couple of sites.

So i think that incorrect tightening will cause this issue.

Shaun

[bodes-sh]

I've got RDA's, I know they're slightly warped, although I don't get any shudder, i use them fairly hard as well. But to the point, if I have the car turned off and push it, certain parts of the disc i can hear a squeak, and other times it's quiet. But as I said, no shuddering as yet, I've had them for about 6 months now

[Norton]

How tight should they be?

I can use a torque wrench to tighten them if needed.

[GK]

Originally Posted by Norton

How tight should they be?

I can use a torque wrench to tighten them if needed.

From the Max Ellery workshop manual.
Caliper bolts 30nm
Wheel nuts 125 nm.

You've given me an idea. I'm off to check the tension of the wheel nuts!

Cheers,

GK

[Norton]

Originally Posted by GK

From the Max Ellery workshop manual.
Caliper bolts 30nm
Wheel nuts 125 nm.

You've given me an idea. I'm off to check the tension of the wheel nuts!

Cheers,

GK

My thoughts exactly GK.

I've done them up with the rattle gun and then used the wheel brace to get them even tighter.

I always thought tighter was better with wheel nuts :

[AU1XLS]

Rattle gun could be your problem

[GK]

Originally Posted by Norton

My thoughts exactly GK.

I've done them up with the rattle gun and then used the wheel brace to get them even tighter.

I always thought tighter was better with wheel nuts :

Just checked them all. They were ok as far as I could tell. We'll see after a drive later today though. I suspect some front rda slotteds are the go.

I would really like to do the S1 - S2 upgrade though.

GK

[GK]

Originally Posted by GK

Just checked them all. They were ok as far as I could tell. We'll see after a drive later today though. I suspect some front rda slotteds are the go.

I would really like to do the S1 - S2 upgrade though.

GK

Sorry for quoting myself, but I ran out of time for the edit as I had to get some playdough out for my 3 year old!

But honey, there's a "valid" reason for a total upgrade. The conversation with the Mrs would go as such.

Gee these front brakes aren't that good. What were Ford thinking? I'm a little concerned with you guys (wife and 2 daughters) in the car.
Do you really need to spend more money on the car?
Honey, you can't put a price on safety.
How much?
A grand for the brake package, but then you need bigger wheels. The 16's are just not big enough.
How much?
It's about the safety remember? I guess another grand, but man would the wagon pull up nicely! Maybe we could save some money, by putting the brake upgrade on the SR and using the SR twin pots to upgrade the wagon. That would save us a few hundred bucks! But the best bet would be to spend 2 grand on each AU, they'd both stop magnificently. Gee that'd be an awesome safety package! What do you think honey?

How do you think that'd fly? LOL!

GK

[StealthAu]

there's a few places that sell an upgrade kit for series 1, though it comes with 4 piston callipers alround and I think 330mm discs at around 6k all up

[Norton]

Just checked my wheel nuts, all were done up heaps more then 125nm :

I know better then to just "Do them up tight". For gods sake, I have 2 large torque wrenches and a small one.

I have just redone the wheel nuts to 125nm and taken the car for a drive:

I take back everything I said about these rotors!! It was my fault, they work fine!!

All of the shudders are gone, they brake smoothly and straight, it was my fault I did the wheels up with the rattle gun.

I have always used this method on many cars and never had a problem, it must be the design of the AU brakes that requires even torque or you guessed it "shudder".....

I'm so happy I didn't rip into the supplier or I would owe him an appology :

Anyone with a shudder problem on their car, especially an AU should check that all wheel nuts are done up to the same torque, I used 125nm and they all seem fine.

By the way, the brakes feel great, not heaps more powerful then the originals but deffinately better. They also look very cool in the gold.

[GK]

Excellent outcome!

It's awesome when the simple and no cost things fix an issue!

I still reckon I should have that upgrade conversation with the Mrs! :hihi:

GK

[peterban]

Good luck with that conversation George!!!!

I am now in two minds over the rotors, the ones for $129 or the RDA's slotted and dimpled for $229. It makes the dimples worth $100, but maybe the peace of mind might be worth it.

[JC]

Originally Posted by GK

Excellent outcome!

It's awesome when the simple and no cost things fix an issue!

I still reckon I should have that upgrade conversation with the Mrs! :hihi:

GK

GK - you can get the parts for around $500 odd, and if you feel like a trip to Canberra, I can help with labour - having done it once, I now know what to do, and how to do it quickly (4 hour job, max).

You will only need 16s if you use AU2 brakes, may need 17s for BA brakes - but I know you will use the story so that you can get 17s, as I would too!

My missus drove my car twice yesterday (only about 20km each time), and she reckons it is heaps better. Feels much like the wagon on the road now, both interms of how the car brakes, and how smooth it is - not darting all over the road. I think I had 3 problems with mine:

1. Seized left front callier piston
2. Shot lower ball joints on both sides
3. Very ordinary, and noisy, right hand side front wheel bearing

I think all of these things contributed to the car handling like crap. Now it's all silky smooth again.

The only issue I have left is a small vibration on the left hand side at idle in gear, but pretty sure it's the chassis swaybar mounts. I'm thinking of loosening them off and silasticing between the mount and the chassis to stop the metal on metal vibration.

I love my AU2 & BA brake setup - definitely heaps better then AU1 spec brakes, and probably as good as the wagon now, with the added bonus of ABS in the XR.

[JC]

Originally Posted by peterban

Good luck with that conversation George!!!!

I am now in two minds over the rotors, the ones for $129 or the RDA's slotted and dimpled for $229. It makes the dimples worth $100, but maybe the peace of mind might be worth it.

You could always go the RDAs for the front (will look nice, and $229 is still cheap), and put the cheaper anodised ones on the rear, where they are not so important.

[peterban]

Hi JC,
its not so much the looks, as I don't think you will see them through the LTD wheels, but the fact that the RDA slotted and dimpled rotors are gold passivated!! ( I think it means they won't rust ).
I see your a fan of the Bendix advance pads, I was thinking of just the Bendix general CT ones as bedding in doesn't seem to be a worry with them.

[JC]

You should always bed in new pads. Once bedded in the, the Advance work really well. Haven't used the CT, but have heard that they work roughly as well as the advance anyway.

[GK]

Originally Posted by JC

GK - you can get the parts for around $500 odd, and if you feel like a trip to Canberra, I can help with labour - having done it once, I now know what to do, and how to do it quickly (4 hour job, max).

You will only need 16s if you use AU2 brakes, may need 17s for BA brakes - but I know you will use the story so that you can get 17s, as I would too!

My missus drove my car twice yesterday (only about 20km each time), and she reckons it is heaps better.
I love my AU2 & BA brake setup - definitely heaps better then AU1 spec brakes, and probably as good as the wagon now, with the added bonus of ABS in the XR.

That's a very tempting offer JC. I may well be heading to Junee the next school holidays and we could do it then. How far is Junee from Canberra again?

I could perhaps impose upon you to source the bits in the ACT, so I wouldn't have to bring them with me (I'd send you the $ of course) and we could do it one Saturday, say the middle Sat of the next school holidays. If VIC and NSW/ACT dates matched, that could indeed be a goer.

I doubt I'd go the BA brakes on the SR, but the AU2-3 brakes on the Futura; (allowing me to keep my 16's) now that's a real possibility! :

Who knows, if it works out, we just may end up having that bourbon we sometimes talk about! LOL!

GK

[scottc]

Just to revive the thread a little,

Norton, how are the rotors going?

I was thinking about putting them on my AU1 ute. I see they have a slotted rotor and a slotted/drilled rotor for a little extra.

I might give the supplier a call Monday and see what he says.

Scott.

[Eu-GenixX]

while we are here... can someone explain.. "bedding in the pads" to me?