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Old 06-12-2006, 01:14 PM   #1
The Monty
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Default The "Pig pipe" (D/U unfriendly)

Ok, I got bored this morning and decided to go to bunnings and get some plumbing accesories to do up a bigger diameter pipe running from the air box to the throttle body. I need to know a few things though.
This is what it will look like on:

Its fouling on this:

Do I need to put this back in, and what is it?


Its only on as a dummy at the moment. So my questions are: How do I get it to not foul, or will it not mater?
What the hell is this (the black hose)?
Does it need to be connected?
If so how?
Does anyone want an article done on it?
Thanks guys, help is appreciated.
Josh

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Old 06-12-2006, 01:24 PM   #2
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How is the PVC pipe gonna stand up to the excessive heat under the bonnet?

I would think that it would either warp or melt.

Go to an exhaust shop and get a metal one made up...
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Old 06-12-2006, 01:27 PM   #3
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But that costs money Kenny. This cost $24 so far, lol. If it melts, Ill just try a metal one then. I actualy get another exhaust on this arvo, so I might ask them how much. And the heat? Nah, shell be right mate. Now I just have to work out how to fit my Hi-clone.
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Old 09-12-2006, 02:01 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Monty
But that costs money Kenny. This cost $24 so far, lol. If it melts, Ill just try a metal one then. I actualy get another exhaust on this arvo, so I might ask them how much. And the heat? Nah, shell be right mate. Now I just have to work out how to fit my Hi-clone.
Josh you are getting bored! go for the BA pipe intake set up in the Au workshop section. I do believe albeit with everything said metal throttle body pipes like my own get too hot.
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Old 06-12-2006, 01:31 PM   #5
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Hi-clone? you've got to be shitting me
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Old 06-12-2006, 01:45 PM   #6
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The black hose is the crankcase breather hose, and no, you don't technically have to connect it, but that's illegal because of the vapours/emissions released...

You're fouling the idle speed control valve so you need to adjust your pipe, not the valve to sort it out.

I'd also be extremely worried about putting flammable PVC pipe under the hood for even a short time. Why don't you get it spot on then use it as a template for a metal one as suggested - then I'd buy one off you!

Cheers.
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Old 06-12-2006, 01:39 PM   #7
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Sorry, had to do it

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Old 06-12-2006, 07:57 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Casper
Sorry, had to do it

Hahahahahhahaha .rofl+++


Mate that looks like a long lost relative of the useless intake pipe which JonBays still uses today.For heavens sake though the pvc to the throttle body mat be in danger of catching fire so get rid of it.Also if it melts it may go down the intake..
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Old 06-12-2006, 01:40 PM   #9
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Ahahaha. No, there will be no Hi-clone guys.
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Old 06-12-2006, 01:42 PM   #10
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You're not serious are you? No, really?
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Old 06-12-2006, 01:42 PM   #11
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I love the smell of PVC fires in the morning
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Old 06-12-2006, 01:45 PM   #12
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Burning PVC directly above the fuel rail.. no thanks.
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Old 06-12-2006, 01:46 PM   #13
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Yeah, maybe I will just get a metal one. I was just bored, so it has passed a couple of hours. Meh, need to find something else to do now.
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Old 06-12-2006, 01:49 PM   #14
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How about a 90mm PVC exhaust pipe?
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Old 06-12-2006, 01:55 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FairmontPom
How about a 90mm PVC exhaust pipe?
I dunno, I would have gone for 125mm :
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Old 06-12-2006, 02:03 PM   #16
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I wouldn't be so worried about the pvc bursting into flames (any contact "hotspots" could be insulated) but more that the constant heat will cause it to become brittle and subject to cracking/breaking. That then leaves unfiltered air/crap entering the throttle body.
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Old 06-12-2006, 01:49 PM   #17
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It's only about $150 to get a nice mandrel bent pipe made to fit perfectly (polished even) ... with better (ie. smoother) bends as well.
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Old 06-12-2006, 07:06 PM   #18
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so whats the standard ones made of?
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Old 06-12-2006, 07:21 PM   #19
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I was thinking that. Must be a heat resistant plastic. I dont know but. It seemed like a good idea at the time, lol.
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Old 06-12-2006, 07:31 PM   #20
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MD electrical conduit wont be effected by the heat
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Old 06-12-2006, 07:53 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stockoau
MD electrical conduit wont be effected by the heat
I will remember that next time I heat some up with a heat gun to bend it :
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Old 06-12-2006, 07:48 PM   #22
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put the pvc pipe from the top of box to the first bend. But get rid of the 50mm outlet that comes from the box and put a 80mm one in. that way u run 80mm all the way, that 50mm inducer thing restricts 18% air flow compared to a ef airbox lid which is 80mm.
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Old 06-12-2006, 08:13 PM   #23
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Yeah, Ive kinda ditched the idea. I get bored of stuff quickly. I might just try going up to and including the elbow, and leave the rest as is. And paint it black. This has been a highly amusing thread though, its up there with dumb things Ive tried to do, like get a cannon on my car (I cant belive I ever thought of that).
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Old 06-12-2006, 08:18 PM   #24
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A few years back I made a stormwater intake.I left the original intake tube and used 90 mm pipe going straight into the box.It worked fine and I am thinking of putting it back on.These steel intake pipes are way overrated.Mine gets ultra hot where the plastic wont get as hot.Dont waste your money on them.However if the temperature is ultra cold then the steel works well.But same difference.
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Old 06-12-2006, 08:40 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by useless
A few years back I made a stormwater intake.I left the original intake tube and used 90 mm pipe going straight into the box.It worked fine and I am thinking of putting it back on.These steel intake pipes are way overrated.Mine gets ultra hot where the plastic wont get as hot.Dont waste your money on them.However if the temperature is ultra cold then the steel works well.But same difference.
Yep I'm using that as well. Seems to work fine and is bigger then the original pipe but still looks factory when sprayed black.
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Old 06-12-2006, 08:26 PM   #26
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Yeah, if you heat it up with a heat gun (depending on which one 120-300degrees) you can bend it, but it doesnt go brittle as quickly as down pipe, or hd conduit
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Old 06-12-2006, 08:56 PM   #27
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I remember about 6months ago I attended a car fire **** it was funny the kid just brought this EXA put some PVC pipe on and a pod filter and it caught fire, he didnt even have insurance
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Old 07-12-2006, 10:08 AM   #28
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Not that i would do it either,but in the aufalcon.com it is mentioned there under au modifications #4 "breathe easy"- it mentions you can get stainless steel made up for this mod.
But on the cheaper end, super cheap have their 90mm but looks tacky and either the best bet to get PVC piping from bunnings or source some flex pipe.
PVC piping is the preferred method. ???
Are there different temp rated PVC?
I think stainless would be safer.
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Old 07-12-2006, 01:21 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by auvct
Not that i would do it either,but in the aufalcon.com it is mentioned there under au modifications #4 "breathe easy"- it mentions you can get stainless steel made up for this mod.
But on the cheaper end, super cheap have their 90mm but looks tacky and either the best bet to get PVC piping from bunnings or source some flex pipe.
PVC piping is the preferred method. ???
Are there different temp rated PVC?
I think stainless would be safer.
The flexi-tube is not recommended between airbox and TB. It is only good for going from under the bar/grille/whatever into the airbox.

PVC pipe between the factory elbow and the airbox should be fine, but metal is safer (though it is hotter, too).
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Old 07-12-2006, 03:24 PM   #30
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PCV pipe will warp... it won't break or catch fire, but it'll warp and pull apart.
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