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#1 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 214
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I cannot for the life of me get rid of a slight miss that my ute has, just off idle, doesnt seem to matter if its under load or not.
I have done the following trying to fix it: 1. New plugs 2. New Top Gun leads 3. New VDO ignition coil 4. Reconditioned injectors (ultrasonic clean, new filter baskets, new o rings etc) 5. Cleaned throttle body and entire inlet tract including K&N filter The miss is still there! It is 10 x better than before I replaced everything, but there is still a slight hesitation there and its really annoying me... The spark plugs are Autolite 985's, gapped to 0.9mm as per Jim Mock Motorsport advice. What else could it be? Is it a computer issue? Fuel somehow? Thanks, Mark |
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#2 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 905
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Inlet manifold gasket . Try tightening up the inlet manifold bolts , see if they are loose .
Otherwise replace it , its common on the falcoons
__________________
1998 AU VCT Ghia - Stock as a rock - Wifes car 1991 Toyota Soarer TT - 11.72 @ 116.7mph 2004 Ford Escape XLT V6 - Family Ride . |
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#3 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 454
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Have you tried cleaning the Crank Angle Sensor?
__________________
BUILD AU II FAIRMONT GHIA HERS AU II Fairmont Ghia 7" DVD/GPS Radio 19" Wheels HIS FG XR8 Ute Lux Pack Tech Pack Touch Screen GPS |
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#4 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 214
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Thanks for the suggestions fellas, but today I did the ECU reset (as described on here) and it seems to have fixed the problem.
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#5 | |||
I ♥ EDM
![]() Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 5,141
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Quote:
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#6 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 214
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Actually, scratch that.. The miss is back...
The ECU reset did help, and the very first drive after I did it was nearly faultless (I'm sure I didn't imagine it?!), but now it is back.. How do I clean the crank angle sensor, and where is it? Do those cheap OBD2 scanners on ebay work on this model? |
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#7 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Melb north
Posts: 12,025
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in this pic you will see the writing on the harmonic balancer, see the w just above that , the black plastic doover with the couple of wires coming out of it , that is the crank angle sensor(basically a magnetic switch), the harmonic balancer(crank pulley) has a toothed gear type thing attached to the back of it, one tooth is missing on that gear, this is a reference point for the engine computer, the computer counts the teeth from the missing tooth and knows exactly what the crank is doing and when to to set the spark off among other things i suspect.
http://www.olympicmotorwreckers.com....C6E21F626F.JPG just my opinion , i`d be surprised if it was the crank sensor, but it can`t hurt to try. i`d probably give it a squirt with a can of degreaser if i had too, i`m thinking maybe you could pull the plugs out taking note which cylinder they came from and see if one looks dirty or different to all the others, if the answer is yes i found one, it might pay to put a working old lead or plug in and see what happens, if it solves the problem you know one was dodgey(it happens on occasion), if it doesn`t further investigation will be required. |
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#8 | ||
When in doubt, GAS IT!!
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Lower Eyre Peninsula, SA
Posts: 3,018
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Personally I would lose the Top Gun Leads, they're nasty. Value for money would have to be Eagle Leads, I run Eagles on both my cars and don't have an issue and running LPG they're very sensitive to a dodgy lead, and if you've got deep pockets there's Ice ignition leads. Others will have other preferences but none of them will be Top Gun that's for sure.
Bushbasher
__________________
. HERS- BFIII Wagon Gold, alloys, dual fuel, bullbar, big tow pack, trans cooler, fully rebuilt HD suspension, Clarion, alarmed, full 2 1/2" sports system, mint body MINE- AUII Forte Meteorite, dual fuel but otherwise bog stock. MINE- AUII Fairlane Sportsman Liquid Silver over meteorite,HIDs', Airhog, Eagle Leads, dual fuel, custom rear springs, BA slotted discs + a second one for spares . |
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#9 | |||
Regular Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 214
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Quote:
I'm going to try the Eagles, and Repco will send the Top Gun's away to be tested, and if they fail they will refund my money. |
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#10 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 214
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Ute is now fixed, ended up being the intake manifold gasket.
See my thread here for more info: http://www.fordforums.com.au/showthr...76#post4189676 |
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#11 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Melb north
Posts: 12,025
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well done.
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#12 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 905
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Score ;) Same on the wifes Au ghia !
__________________
1998 AU VCT Ghia - Stock as a rock - Wifes car 1991 Toyota Soarer TT - 11.72 @ 116.7mph 2004 Ford Escape XLT V6 - Family Ride . |
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#13 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 139
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Where'd you get the gasket from, how much... and how did you do it? It's fairly easy yeah?
Our AU has a slight miss at idle, it's very random. It's got new leads & plugs, no change... will probably look at the coil pack next, however if it's easy to change the gasket then I may as well do it, since everyone is saying it's very common in the AU's ![]() |
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#14 | |||
Au Falcon = Mr Reliable
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: North West Slopes & Plains NSW
Posts: 4,076
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Quote:
cheers,Maka
__________________
Ford AU Series Magazine Scans Here - www.fordforums.com.au/photos/index.php?cat=2792 Proud owner of a optioned keeper S1 Tickford Falcon AU XR6 VCT - "it's actually a better-balanced car than the XR8, goes almost as hard and uses about two-thirds of the fuel" (Drive.com 2007) |
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#15 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 139
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I see I can pick up a new Bosche pack for $86 off ebay (with free postage), worth replacing it anyway for that price?
I'll buy a 10mm ratchet spanner and try tightening the manifold though... I've had a quick look at other threads and it looks doable to replace the gasket itself, apparently the hardest bit are the bottom two bolts (which they say to do first). The one thing that worries me as I have some kind of bracket between the 1st bolt at the front of the inlet manifold and the water thermostat housing, so I'm not sure hot to remove the manifold without removing the thermostat housing to get that bracket out of the way? Does anyone else have that bracket joining them together? |
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#16 | ||
rexnet
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Adelaide, South Australia
Posts: 3,562
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That bracket is ok. All you need to do is loosen the thermo bolt and undo the inlet bolt and it's good. Make note of what bolts go where. Some very in size and also like a head. Work Ing a circular pattern moving inside out when tightening them up and Itll tighten up evenly. IMO bottem of cylinders 5&6 are very lame. 1/4 " drive Uni joints and extension bars are your friend!!!
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