AU sedans, what to look for

[TheSneakiness]

Circumstances for me are changing and I'm going to find myself back in an AU Falcon in the new year.

Since these beauties are now approaching 15 years old what do I need to keep in mind when looking at second hand versions? Particularly keeping my eye out on Series 2 and 3 XR8s.

[Sox]

Going by the silence, most obviously feel there's noting to look for in an AU, they're perfect!

In all seriousness, there is little to look for as they are very solid. As with any car purchase, go for as low k's as possible within your budget. If it is clean looking, drives well, and has up to date service history, then it's likely a fine machine.

Most specific issues won't be large $$, so you need not worry.

The only costly thing IMO which may need replacing earlier than most other large items is the auto tranny. Even that in the AU's seemed to last longer than in previous models.

Some have had rust in the boot and certain other area, others have had none.
All the engines are as robust as it gets, with perhaps only valve springs being a weak link, which is a cheap fix anyhow.

Try and lean towards the series 3 XR8, as you'll gain another handy 20kw, plus most had the rebel body kit. Obviously they're also slightly newer.
In standard trim they can also keep a B series XR8 honest in a straight line, and go round them through the bends.

Have fun.

[TheSneakiness]

Originally Posted by Sox

Going by the silence, most obviously feel there's noting to look for in an AU, they're perfect!

In all seriousness, there is little to look for as they are very solid. As with any car purchase, go for as low k's as possible within your budget. If it is clean looking, drives well, and has up to date service history, then it's likely a fine machine.

Most specific issues won't be large $$, so you need not worry.

The only costly thing IMO which may need replacing earlier than most other large items is the auto tranny. Even that in the AU's seemed to last longer than in previous models.

Some have had rust in the boot and certain other area, others have had none.
All the engines are as robust as it gets, with perhaps only valve springs being a weak link, which is a cheap fix anyhow.

Try and lean towards the series 3 XR8, as you'll gain another handy 20kw, plus most had the rebel body kit. Obviously they're also slightly newer.
In standard trim they can also keep a B series XR8 honest in a straight line, and go round them through the bends.

Have fun.

Cheers. I've missed being in an AU since I traded my ute, one of the stupidest moves I've ever made.

Most examples I've seen on Carsales look clean but again to see in the flesh might not yield the same results.

Ideally I would get a series 3 but will settle for a series 2.

What is the expected outlay for valve springs for the old Windsor in case one pops?

[Whoosha]

Originally Posted by Rapid_Axe

Cheers. I've missed being in an AU since I traded my ute, one of the stupidest moves I've ever made.
Ideally I would get a series 3 but will settle for a series 2.

What is the expected outlay for valve springs for the old Windsor in case one pops?

Just did mine $100 for the Springs and another $100 for retainers depending which model, as for the rust easy places are the boot struts 1/4 panel end. and pull the windscreen pillar rubber back past the top of the drivers door and check the weld joins ,

[Sox]

The AU2/3 XR8's are extremely rewarding cars.

I think the valve spring kit from Crow, which includes springs, retainers, and collets, is under $400.
It's wise to change them before one breaks, as a broken springs can cause bent valves and piston damage.

Plenty people haven't changes them though, even high k units, so don't be paranoid, but if you have the coin, it's a good idea.

[Mr Hardware]

Rust
usually, in an AU, if you haven't found any rust, you aren't looking hard enough

[TheSneakiness]

Yes, I do remember a small rust bubble that started appearing on the passenger side of my ute above where the door jamb was.

Also another thing I remember was the clear peeling off the tub which took paint with it, happen with sedans too?

[Jim Goose]

If it has IRS I am told that rebushing them costs over $1000???

Rust in the dog leg (a Ford family tradition!)... rusty heater pipes... blocked radiators... about all i can think of.

[AU2PWA]

Originally Posted by Jim Goose

If it has IRS I am told that rebushing them costs over $1000???

Rust in the dog leg (a Ford family tradition!)... rusty heater pipes... blocked radiators... about all i can think of.

My Rebushing of my AU2 came to $780 .. I feel your Pain ..

Rusty Heater Pipes , Rusted hinges in AU2 and AU3 Wagon Tailgates ,

Realistically, any 15 year old car is going to have problems , But Ductape fixes everything..

[TK-421]

I just bought an AU1 XR8 option 20, i looked for rust on the inner and outter sills, around the boot rubber, under the rear parcel tray, behind the tail lights and try and look under the rear bumper if possible, below A pillars where door hinges bolt up to. If your going for an 8 check for oil leaks (rear main seal).

[AUFanboy]

Timing cover on the V8 can corrode behind the water pump if coolant changes are neglected, and let coolant into the sump.

IRS top shock mount bushes wear out and will clunk over bumps.

Leaky steering racks seem to be an AU feature, but a fluid flush plus a dash of power steering stop leak has worked well for me twice.

Dodgy power window switches and stuffed door lock actuators are common problems but easy to fix.

Radiators will be leaking or about to leak if they are original, but cheap and easy to wack a new one in. IMO an original rad is a good sign because the car must have had regular coolant changes for it to last 10+ years, look for a date code on the top of the drivers side header tank.

They are pretty solid for their age, find a well maintained and you should be right!