changing from open to LSD and lowering

[au2sw]

Hi guys, please excuse me if this topic has been covered previously. just curious about if i change my diff from open wheel to LSD as well as gearing (3.28 - 3.5 or 3.8) would this affect my speedo? would i need to change my speedo drive? AU2 forte wagon 4spd auto I6. im hoping it wont be a drama and an easy swap, but i cant help but feel that i may need to change speedo drives to suit.

also wondering about lowering hieghts. the wagon is sitting at stock hieght (4wd mode) im thinking perhaps 2" lowering blocks on the rear with 1 1/2" lower in front, bring it up to a level stance without dumping it as i still need practicallity as it is the wifes daily driver with the kiddies. so do you guys think thats a good chop, or do you have other suggestions.

as always, your help is greatly appreciated
col

[StealthAu]

it will effect your speedo, either change speedo drive or buy a jaycar speedo correctr

[duaned]

Originally Posted by stockoau

it will effect your speedo, either change speedo drive or buy a jaycar speedo correctr

I have heard form a local flash tuner ( the ford edit ) that the speedo can be corrected through the capa flash tune, without the need of speedo correctors as such. Obviously it's a more expensive choice, but at lot more benefits to your pride and joy also. Reason I know is I have been considering changing diff gears myself and the speedo issues were an easy fix by the tuner.

[JC]

Originally Posted by au2sw

also wondering about lowering hieghts. the wagon is sitting at stock hieght (4wd mode) im thinking perhaps 2" lowering blocks on the rear with 1 1/2" lower in front, bring it up to a level stance without dumping it as i still need practicallity as it is the wifes daily driver with the kiddies. so do you guys think thats a good chop, or do you have other suggestions.

as always, your help is greatly appreciated
col

You can only fit max 38mm (1.5")lowering blocks in the rear of an AU, due to to position of the lower shock absorber mount - and only if you have 8" rims or less wide. If you put 9" wide rims on the back, the max lowering block is 25mm (1"). Lowering block kit, including new U bolts etc, is around $80 for a whiteline kit.

There are two ways to lower the front - fit stock XR springs or superlows (same as XR height). The other is to remove some of the coil material. 1/2 coil is approx 15mm height reduction (don't ask how I know). I wouldn't cut more than a full coil out though.

You should be able to pick up a second hand set of XR springs pretty cheap, as most XR owners who want theirs lower go with SSLs etc.

[NC1183]

Cutting springs, JC i thought better of you.
I'd either get a set of whiteline or kingspring springs or secondhand xr ones before i cut my springs. Cutting them affects the spring rate and the load carrying ability of them.

[JC]

Originally Posted by nc006

Cutting springs, JC i thought better of you.
I'd either get a set of whiteline or kingspring springs or secondhand xr ones before i cut my springs. Cutting them affects the spring rate and the load carrying ability of them.

True - but the XRs get 9 coils, and the fortes get 11, so I figure by making springs 10 1/2 or even 10 coils, it's not changing them too much! Always better to get the right springs though.

[BLACKAUXR8]

i have a 6cyl 99 au and i lowerd it with king springs 1 1/2 inchs and it sits really nice over a set of series 1 xr 17s. It dosnt scrape on very much at all if you went any lower you might find it to low.

[StealthAu]

I thought king srings lows are the same as the xr's?

[JC]

Originally Posted by stockoau

I thought king srings lows are the same as the xr's?

Yes - you are right. My mistake - I was very tired when I typed superlows!

[private9]

How do you find the lowering blocks JC?

I am of the understanding that lowering blocks change the geometry or the rear suspension and negatively affect the handling?

[JC]

Originally Posted by private9

How do you find the lowering blocks JC?

I am of the understanding that lowering blocks change the geometry or the rear suspension and negatively affect the handling?

The wagon handles much better with the lowering blocks than the reset leaves. It still has nearly full suspension travel, so when loaded, doesn't feel like a go cart (go-cart feeling not good in family wagon).

Rag Top has my old reset leaves, and is more than happy with them though, so it's a case of horses for courses.

[private9]

Originally Posted by JC

The wagon handles much better with the lowering blocks than the reset leaves. It still has nearly full suspension travel, so when loaded, doesn't feel like a go cart (go-cart feeling not good in family wagon).

Rag Top has my old reset leaves, and is more than happy with them though, so it's a case of horses for courses.

Very interesting, thanks for that JC. $100 odd for lowering blocks certainly sounds a lot better than $350+ for new King's leaves.

AU2SW if yours is the family barge like mine, the last thing you'd want is a rock hard ride jiggling your kiddies around!

[JC]

Originally Posted by private9

Very interesting, thanks for that JC. $100 odd for lowering blocks certainly sounds a lot better than $350+ for new King's leaves.

AU2SW if yours is the family barge like mine, the last thing you'd want is a rock hard ride jiggling your kiddies around!

The missus is a lot happier with it at the current height using lowering blocks. There's only 5mm difference in height with the stage one leaves, but the ride is way better with the blocks (I guess the shocks get to go though full travel).

[BLACKAUXR8]

My mate has an escort which are leaf in the rear and to lower it he actually took out only 2 of the leafs from the bottom whick in an escort i think there was about 6 or 7 turned them upside down and put them back in the on the top. The springs then are forcing against the others and lowered it a considerable amount without even taking the spring all the way out.

[au2sw]

would it be advisable to change the shocks as well? or doesnt it matter if only lowering the small amount?

[JC]

XR shocks are the same as Forte shocks, so as long as you only drop around 30 to 40mm (to XR height) standard shocks should be fine, unless they're shagged. If they're still the same ones as fitted from factory, it's time to replace them anyway (approx every 60,000km for shocks has always been my rule).