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Old 04-01-2007, 07:11 PM   #1
au2sw
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Default after some advice on lowering my auii wagon

hi guys,
im thinking of lowering my wagon from standard ride hight. just wondering how much i should lower it so i remove the 4wd stance they have from factory to a better hight that has street appeal and practicality (ie will still ride over speed bumps without bottoming out) ill be putting a set of 18 x 8's all round with an xr style wagon bodykit from awc. also would you advise i get the cambers reset, change shocks to suit etc etc?
any advice would be appreciated
col

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Old 04-01-2007, 08:00 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by au2sw
hi guys,
im thinking of lowering my wagon from standard ride hight. just wondering how much i should lower it so i remove the 4wd stance they have from factory to a better hight that has street appeal and practicality (ie will still ride over speed bumps without bottoming out) ill be putting a set of 18 x 8's all round with an xr style wagon bodykit from awc. also would you advise i get the cambers reset, change shocks to suit etc etc?
any advice would be appreciated
col
I would only go XR height, but that's me, others will tell you to dump it way, way low! LOL!

JC has lowered many a car, wagon and sedan, and he currently has both, so his advice would be good to get.

Chief has lowered his wagon too I think!

Cheers,

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Old 04-01-2007, 08:03 PM   #3
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front springs are a easy DIY if your got the rite tools super lows would probabley do it .some need a caster kit some dont, its the luck of the draw ..rear wagon springs have to replaced or reset by the suspention shop .. type in "lowerd susspension" in the seach this thread box that should get all the info you will need .
whoosha
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Old 04-01-2007, 08:24 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by Whoosha
front springs are a easy DIY if your got the rite tools super lows would probabley do it .some need a caster kit some dont, its the luck of the draw ..rear wagon springs have to replaced or reset by the suspention shop .. type in "lowerd susspension" in the seach this thread box that should get all the info you will need .
whoosha
au2sw, Whoosha is typing way too fast. LOL!

Type in "lowered suspension"

Whoosha's had too much coffee tonight! LOL!

GK
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Old 04-01-2007, 09:12 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by GK
au2sw, Whoosha is typing way too fast. LOL!

Type in "lowered suspension"

Whoosha's had too much coffee tonight! LOL!

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Quote:
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Quote of the weekend: "The quarter mile wasn't as long as I expected it to be".
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Old 04-01-2007, 11:08 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Whoosha
front springs are a easy DIY if your got the rite tools super lows would probabley do it .some need a caster kit some dont, its the luck of the draw ..rear wagon springs have to replaced or reset by the suspention shop .. type in "lowerd susspension" in the seach this thread box that should get all the info you will need .
whoosha
On the front of the wagon I have effectively got Lows (XR8 ute springs minus 1/2 coil, so now 10.5 turns instead of 11. Standard spring has 9 turns. They lowered the front by 28mm, IIRC).I have had SLs and they were fine too, but they are now on the XR8.

For the rear, I have had reset leaves (went 50mm - way too much, but 40 should be fine), stage 1 pedders springs (equivalent to SL height), but I am currently running Whiteline 38mm (1.5") lowering blocks with standard rear springs. As long as you have a minimum of 17" x 8" wide (any wider or if the diameter is less than 17", the rims will foul on the bottom shock mount), then the lowering blocks will fit, and they are pretty good - you get normal suspension comfort at a lower height. Not sure about RTA legality, but they only take 20 minutes to fit/remove.

https://www.whiteline.com.au/store/d...p?part=KLB61-1
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Old 04-01-2007, 11:34 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JC
On the front of the wagon I have effectively got Lows (XR8 ute springs minus 1/2 coil, so now 10.5 turns instead of 11. Standard spring has 9 turns. They lowered the front by 28mm, IIRC).I have had SLs and they were fine too, but they are now on the XR8.

For the rear, I have had reset leaves (went 50mm - way too much, but 40 should be fine), stage 1 pedders springs (equivalent to SL height), but I am currently running Whiteline 38mm (1.5") lowering blocks with standard rear springs. As long as you have a minimum of 17" x 8" wide (any wider or if the diameter is less than 17", the rims will foul on the bottom shock mount), then the lowering blocks will fit, and they are pretty good - you get normal suspension comfort at a lower height. Not sure about RTA legality, but they only take 20 minutes to fit/remove.

https://www.whiteline.com.au/store/d...p?part=KLB61-1
Out of curiosity JC, when you say the SL's in the rear were too low, was it scraping everywhere, or more of a terrible ride?
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Old 05-01-2007, 12:13 AM   #8
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Out of curiosity JC, when you say the SL's in the rear were too low, was it scraping everywhere, or more of a terrible ride?
Both.
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Old 04-01-2007, 09:14 PM   #9
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Default

Yep , mutnt tlk iz goood sos gerihatrics not nd 2 understnd , secrt cde ,

thx ,

Dan
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Old 04-01-2007, 11:41 PM   #10
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I haven't lowered my car yet George. Have been waiting for the stroker motor to go in and the rear bar to be complete to see how far I can comfortably go.

Ask me in a months time when I do lower the car.
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Old 05-01-2007, 07:49 AM   #11
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My ute had the factory "sports" suspension in it (apparently AU XR height) ... and I lowered it another 1.5" lower than that ... so it brought the back down to a decent level (no 4WD height).

It's not overly low .. I can still get in and out of some of the worst loading docks around ... and over speed humps with ease (no slowing down ... well ... some .... and no need to go on angles either).

So for mine it's about the same level as Lows on an XR. I find it's a good height ... ride is still comfortable (even with gas shocks in) ... and when loaded up it doesn't sag too much either.
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Old 05-01-2007, 12:36 PM   #12
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thanks for the info guys, has really helped in my decesion, especially JC's info. will let u know how it all goes when i do finally get around to doing the suspension work. shouldnt be to far down the track.
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