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02-06-2007, 01:11 AM | #1 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Melbourne - Eastern Suburbs
Posts: 956
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Hi i'm new to the forums and to modifying in general. I've got my first car (1999 silhoette au I S-Pak Falcon) and i'm starting off with giving the interior a bit more flare.
So I bought a silver instrument cluster face (i'm not sure if that is exactly what it is called, but thats all I know it as) off ebay to replace the standard black one. Basically the face with all the gauges, speedo and such. Now I was wondering if anyone has got a guide on how to do this and how to do it properly? I'm just worried about removing the needles for all the gauges etc. Thanks for any help, -RTSW (By the way, my username is supposed to be Ride The Solar Winds. Is there anyway I can get it fixed?) |
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02-06-2007, 01:25 AM | #2 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 637
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hey mate, i don't know how to do it at all, but theres alot of people asking this latly. Maybe since u are going to do it.. would u be able to do up a step by step tutorial on how to do it with pics??? i will be looking at doing this soon also..
Thanks soz to be kinda off topic |
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03-06-2007, 09:52 PM | #3 | |||
Karasu
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Melbourne Vic
Posts: 208
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Quote:
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02-06-2007, 10:39 AM | #4 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Melbourne - Eastern Suburbs
Posts: 956
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Yeah I should be able to do that no problems.
I'll be installing it next week sometime. |
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02-06-2007, 07:57 PM | #5 | ||
Karasu
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Melbourne Vic
Posts: 208
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Ok to do this....
1/ remove the 2 black caps that cover the screws at the top of the cluster and remove screws. 2/ insert a couple of allen keys into the screw holes making sure you have them into the fascia not just the clear lens and pull the cluster forward, sometimes helps to reach up through the fusebox hole and push from behind (long thin arms help here) 3/ once the cluster comes forward reach behind and disconnect the 2 (or 3 depending on what model you have) plugs that are attached at the back of the cluster. 4/ withdraw completely from vehicle. 5/ remover the black felt tape that covers the mounting tabs on the bottom and stick it to the main body of the cluster for storage then push in the tabs on the top of the lens (not the fascia) starting from one end and working towards the other (the lens and fascia cannot be removed as one unit without risking breaking it)... just push the tabs untill they sit under the mounting slots do not try to completely remove it at this stage. 6/ using a flat blade driver gently (read very very gently) lever up the clear tabs on the bottom of the cluster so that they clear the locating tabs, again working from one end to the other. when this is done remove the clear lens. 7/ remove the fascia using the same method as described for removing the clear lens with the exception that there are only 2 tabs on the bottom. 8/ Remove the instrument panel fascia. 9/gently turn each gauge needle in turn to it's stop and using a twisting / pulling motion remove the needles from the gauges, the needles can be very tight and some force can be needed to remove them, however great care is also required as they can be quite fragile, the needles plug into wire rods that connect them to the gauge bodies mounted in the back of the cluster, occasionaly the wire rod will remain attached to the needle rather than the gauge, don't panic it wont damage anything but you will need to take some extra care when re-installing them. 10/ Carefully lift one end of the instrument face sheet and peel upwards (taking care not to bend it to much) and remove from cluster. 11/ Line up the 2 locator pins at the top of the gauge cluster with the holes in the top of the new gauge sheet and press new sheet into place. 12/ re-install the gauge needles being careful to line each one up with the zero stop of the gauge, some twisting back and forth may be needed to get the needles to sit where they did before. 13/ plug the cluster back into the car and turn ign on without starting the car speedometer and tacho needles should now move to their "zero" position...Take note of any variation, switch off ign and adjust as needed. 14/ when first powered up the gauge cluster will display a cluster ID code in the odometer display IE Falc for Falcon, Fair for Fairmont / Fairlane and LTD to restore original odometer and trip meter displays simply switch ign on / off / on, and the original readings should be displayed. 15/ remove from vehicle again and firstly re-install the panel fascia by lining up the location tabs at the top and pressing the fascia down (check that lower tabs are seated correctly and that the fasia is seated correctly over the locating tabs around the clusters rim). 16/ re-install the clear lens cover using the same method as used for the fascia taking particular care to make sure all the bottom tabs are correctly seated over their locating pins. 17/ Replace the black felt tape in its original position. 18/ Install cluster back into car and replace black screw cover caps. 19/ As there may be some variation in the position of the gauge needles from their original location, it's advisable that you place the cluster into diagnostic mode and compare the digital speed reading with the value shown by the needle, if the variance is greater than 2% it is recomended that you remove the clear lens and adjust the needle to compensate. Hope this helps cheers |
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02-06-2007, 11:10 PM | #6 | ||
T3 TE50 Blueprint
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 934
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Can i ask how you put the digital display into diagnostic mode?
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03-06-2007, 01:41 AM | #7 | |||
Karasu
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Melbourne Vic
Posts: 208
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Quote:
http://www.fordforums.com.au/showthread.php?t=98363 |
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03-06-2007, 10:31 AM | #8 | ||
T3 TE50 Blueprint
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 934
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Thankyou
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03-06-2007, 05:09 PM | #9 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Melbourne - Eastern Suburbs
Posts: 956
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Thanks a lot Umineko, exactly what I was after! Can't wait to install it.
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03-06-2007, 05:39 PM | #10 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Salamander Bay
Posts: 5,427
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just make sure the speedo has the same range some people try to put a 240 K face on a 22oK culster resulting in an inaccurate speedo reading. you can not change this without geting an instrument tech to re callibrate the speedo
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25-06-2007, 06:10 PM | #11 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: ACT
Posts: 11,647
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I'm at point 2 at the moment. Not sure I have the allen key is the right part. Is there a trick as it seems to be very tight fit
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25-06-2007, 07:13 PM | #12 | |||
Miami Pilot
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: ACT
Posts: 21,704
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Quote:
__________________
-----------------------------------------------------------------
The Hammer: FG GTE | 376rwkw | 1/4 mile 11.793 @ 119.75mph 1.733 60' (4408lb) 1 of 60 FG MK1 335 GTEs (1 of 118 FG Mk 1 & 2 335 GTEs). Mods: Tune, HSD/ShockWorks, black GT335 19” staggered replicas with 245 & 275/35/19 Michelin Pilot sport 5s Daily: BF2 Fairmont Ghia I6 ZF, machine face GT335 19” staggered Replicas with 245s and 275s, Bilsteins & Kings FPV 335 build stats: <click here> Ford Performance Club ACT |
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25-06-2007, 07:56 PM | #13 | ||
Oh Yeah!
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Manhattan, NY
Posts: 1,023
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First thing is if its one of the ford silver faces from the TE/S series and you have the stock cluster then it wont fit due to the volt/oil pressure gauge.
Also forget the allen keys much easier way is to undo the two top screws and then take out your fuse box cover (below the steering wheel to the right) if you look up there you can see the back of your cluster. Put a huge screw driver up and leaver it forwards to get it out, its much easier and your less likely to crack/scratch the face when doing it.
__________________
Oh no! Duffman can't breath! Oh, yeah! |
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25-06-2007, 08:59 PM | #14 | |||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: ACT
Posts: 11,647
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Quote:
I've got the blue XR cluster and I'm going to replace it with a silver one I got from Ebay. Thanks for your help JC & Duffman. |
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26-06-2007, 10:27 AM | #15 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Brisbane
Posts: 976
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just my 2 cents worth. with the 220/240 readout i had the problem and when i went to get it calibrated they wanted an arm and leg. so i overlayed the 220 over the 240 and noted the difference. i then put the needle on below the zero the same difference, it's about 1 increment. i then had a speedo check done and i was within 4klm's per hour.
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26-06-2007, 07:15 PM | #16 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: ACT
Posts: 11,647
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Cluster is done. The Mrs found an easy way to remove the needs in about 10 seconds flat. I cringed
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26-06-2007, 07:42 PM | #17 | |||
Miami Pilot
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: ACT
Posts: 21,704
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Quote:
__________________
-----------------------------------------------------------------
The Hammer: FG GTE | 376rwkw | 1/4 mile 11.793 @ 119.75mph 1.733 60' (4408lb) 1 of 60 FG MK1 335 GTEs (1 of 118 FG Mk 1 & 2 335 GTEs). Mods: Tune, HSD/ShockWorks, black GT335 19” staggered replicas with 245 & 275/35/19 Michelin Pilot sport 5s Daily: BF2 Fairmont Ghia I6 ZF, machine face GT335 19” staggered Replicas with 245s and 275s, Bilsteins & Kings FPV 335 build stats: <click here> Ford Performance Club ACT |
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26-06-2007, 07:55 PM | #18 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: ACT
Posts: 11,647
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Pics in the build thread.
Needs line up pretty good. |
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