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#3241 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,659
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Today was about trying these new products out. I’ll deal with some protection another time.
Any tips on technique with the BlowR? |
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#3242 | ||
Donating Member
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Location: Checking out soft furnishings....
Posts: 8,698
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Alright, so the Rodeo detail. Plan was to just clean it up for sale. I gave myself an aim for 12 hours all up to prep it, that's for everything. I didn't want to give it a detail that made it look like I was trying to hide something. So little things, I didn't clean the tray thoroughly, I didn't black the tyres, I didn't wash the engine bay. What I did do, was clean it up to present it nicely for sale as it's a straight and honest ute. As in previous posts I had done the interior. I took the seats out and fully washed the vinyl interior, I also steamed the seats.
So the exterior, I had yesterday free so decided I would sort it out. I gave it a wash with Nova Snow +. I then used turps to get rid of heaps of tar on the bottom of the doors. I like turps, it's cheap and works the same, if not better than the more expensive product. I let it dwell for about a minute, then wipe it of, then thoroughly wash the area, don't ever let it dry on the paint. Then I dried it, I didn't use clay as besides the tar, it was pretty good and I didn't need it perfect. Paint correction time, I used a combo of scholl S20 and The Last Cut with an orange pad. I didn't work the product hard, I wasn't chasing any big scratches. All I was doing was removing the small scratches and swirls and getting a bit more shine. The photos show how nicely it came up. Most the car had a minor yellow tinge that you couldn't really see until I started correcting it. I did the correction quickly. I spent 5 1/2 hours all up on the correction, which is bugger all, I spent over 30 hours on the P250 paint alone for comparison. I probably achieved about a 70% finish on it for defects, shine was great. From there I then checked over the paint and then hit a few areas I knew I could fix up. I am so glad I bought the mini polisher, it cuts time down so quickly. I've only used the rotary head so far, it cuts amazingly quickly. Then I gave it a wipeover with NV clarity and gave it a coat of NV Lustre. I then attacked the plastic trim with Bowdens Mr Black. With the car all done I went and took for sale photos. All up I spent 12 1/2 hours on the detail. I put it up for sale last night at 10pm on marketplace and also made an ad for carsales. I priced it higher than the others online as it presented much better even though it had 350,000km. I woke with 12 messages from marketplace. I filtered through them and 1 guy wanted to look at it straight away. He arrived at 9am and drove it away at 915. Quickest and easiest sale i've ever had. I thought it would sit around for a while. It's gone to a farm to be used as a runabout, perfect ute for that. I got notification at 10am the carsales link was live, what a waste of money that was. Feel free to ask any questions as I didn't go too in depth with this post. Ready to go ![]() Turps to get the tar off ![]() Can see where it wipes straight off at the bottom ![]() Masked up ![]() Can see the paint blemishes and marks ![]() This shows how the paint was discoloured ![]() Same spot all corrected ![]() ![]() Headlights yellowed, I didn't sand, just polished with The Last Cut and then sealed. ![]() The plastics ![]() A few of the for sale photos I used, came up nicely, fun little project. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
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Proud owner of the ugliest Ford ever made |
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#3243 | |||
Donating Member
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Posts: 12,239
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Quote:
You then drive water down the windshields and onto the wiper scuttle or boot lid. Do the same with the side glass, driving down onto the doors. I then blow out the wing mirror, the windshield scuttle, moving down onto the hood and front quarter panel. Drive water downwards on the doors, lightly lift the door handle to remove any trapped water, then make sure to blow out the panel gaps between the door and side skirts. Then do rear quarter and boot lid, don't forget behind the fuel door. From here, move to the passenger side and repeat the same, making sure to not blow water back onto the roof and glass. Finally, blow out the front and rear bumpers, paying attention to around the perimeter of the lights. For wheels/wheel aches, I do this as I move around the car. You can also use it to blast water from the door jambs, you would do this on half speed. Good luck.
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PX MK II Ranger FG XR6 FG X XR8 Mustang GT T3 TS50 - gone but not forgotten |
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#3244 | ||
Donating Member
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Posts: 12,239
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Of the countless products and brands that I cycle through, the biggest compliment I can give a brand or product is if I go to buy it again...................
![]() I know Armour Detail Supply is the current buzz brand, but there is genuine reason for that hype. There is not a dud in line, but there are products I'm using more than others. Pilot one me over the second I opened the bottle, and Amplify is simply brilliant, no if's, buts or maybes! The wheel coating is for the new Mustang. I'm still wondering if I go wax or a coating with the S650, but I've now crossed out Gyeon Mohs EVO and have ADS Quartz in my sights. Also included in this order were three MTM weighted filters for the PF22.2 foam cannons. These were introduced on the updated PF22.2 and are now available for retrofitting existing foam cannons. I have been running one of my PF22.2's with a Kwazar weighted filter and it has really improved the functionality of the foam cannon, especially when approaching the last 100ml of liquid. No reason why these MTM filters couldn't be adapted to other brand foam cannons. For $6.00, its a now brainer. https://detailingshed.com.au/product...b5a46ab1&_ss=r ![]() ![]()
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PX MK II Ranger FG XR6 FG X XR8 Mustang GT T3 TS50 - gone but not forgotten |
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#3245 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,659
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I probably spent about 16 hours in the garage on the weekend with the new Dark Horse.
As with previous cars I took delivery of the car exactly how it came off the truck. The dealership didn’t wash the car at all. So the car arrived with 4 months of dirt and dust from car parks, train rides and shipping yards. After pulling all the stickers off off the windows and the plastics off the seats it got its first wash with Car Pro Lift in the foam canon. After a thorough rinse I did a contact wash with Car Pro Descale. After drying it off with the new Big Boi BlowR Pro+ and some drying towels I was pleased to see the paintwork had arrived in pretty good shape and transport damage free. Sure there was a few marks that requires attention and some kind of white overspray over the right hand side. But nothing that would require any repairs. I cleaned up the tyres with Carpro ReTyre and the wheels with NV Purge both of which were pretty impressive. I think I’ll keep them stocked up. I dealt with the overspray with a clay mit and NV Purify. After another rinse and dry it was into the garage where the real work began. For the bulk of the car I used Polish Angel’s Master Final Polish simply to enhance the gloss. Anything that required more cutting got a hit with Scholl S2 black and then the PA Master Final polish over that. Polishing duties were shared between my Shinemate EX620 15mm DA and the little Shinemate EB210 detail polisher. I probably spent 10-12 hours polishing the car. Sure it’s not perfect but I’m pretty happy with the level it’s at. The paint is smooth and glossy and just about swirl free. There are a couple of small paint defects or scratches that I could have chased harder but I chose to leave them just smoothed over to preserve as much clear coat as possible. After a thorough ipa wipe over I applied NV evo ceramic coat. This was my first time using this product and it was outstanding. It was easy to apply with a smooth wipe off. I put two layers on the black roof and over the bonnet including the vinyl graphics. NV evo seemed to improve the look of the bonnet stickers and give them a kind of richness and seemed to differentiate the three tones on the stickers. Pretty happy with that. I’m pretty happy with the results so far. The paint looks deep and glossy and feels pretty slick. I’m yet to apply the NV Wheel ceramic coat which I will apply to the wheels and Notorious Blue brake calipers. Also need to do interior glass and tyre shine, along with a wipe over of the engine bay. I had Metallica, Alice in Chains, Black Sabbath and Taylor Swift pumping all day long, and many more. This car will be looked after and washed most weeks. But it won’t be a garage queen. It’s my wife’s new daily drive and gets driven in all conditions and on all roads including some dirt roads. ![]() ![]() ![]() DFB you don’t need to worry about the black roof. I actually think you will love looking after it. |
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#3246 | |||
Donating Member
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Quote:
I wouldn't have picked you for a Taylor Swift fan...........not that I can talk. ![]() I'm so conflicted at the moment. Ceramic or traditional wax? Or traditional sealant topped with wax? I keep flip flopping on what to do. I guess the car won't be daily driven, let alone driven on wet roads or parked outdoors, so a traditional protectant would be fine. But then I'm also really keen to try ADS Quartz. ![]()
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#3247 | |||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,659
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Quote:
For me the choice to ceramic coat the car comes down to its daily use and I feel the ceramic coat makes it easier to clean and dry the car. It also seems to respond well to what I consider maintenance sprays like NV Jet or Lustre. It seems to be working for us. Saying all that I was still wondering if I should try a wax. |
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#3248 | ||
Donating Member
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Posts: 12,239
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So glad to see Waxit bringing Detail Factory into their store.
https://www.waxit.com.au/collections/detail-factory ![]() ![]() I think there are some areas that Waxit have fallen behind on, a solid line of brushes being one of them. If you are going to position your company as a premium go-to for enthusiasts, selling stuff that can be had from Amazon doesn't really fit that model. In regard to brushes, think along the line of those generic black and red plastic brushes that usually come in a set of 4 or 5. Or the set of repurposed paint brushes. That's not to say they won't work, but they don't represent the Waxit brand image. https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...ng-brush-set-1 https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...brush-set-of-5 ![]() Moving forward, its great to see Waxit choosing what I think are the best brushes on the market. It's clear there was a high focus on design, which has a twofold benefit. Ergonomically, the user comfort is high with most featuring soft touch grips and shaped to avoid cramping during prolonged use. That they also look fantastic pleases my creative side. I also love how you can colour code brushes to specific tasks. And while you will pay more for these brushes, I've found them highly durable. Put it this way, with other brushes, I've had to replace them at some point. I have not needed to replace a Detail Factory product, ever! With that, lets have a look at the range and what I think you need - Tire Scrub Brush - Easily my favorite from the brand! Contrary to most tire brushes, this brush has softer bristles that allows it to conform to side wall for a deeper clean rather than just scuffing the surface. I love this brush so much I bought a second for cleaning rubber floor mats. They make an XL version for larger SUV and pickup tyres as well. https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...re-brush-stiff https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...-xl-tyre-brush They also make one with even softer bristles for interior cleaning such as carpet or floor mats. https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...interior-brush ![]() ![]() ![]() Ultra Soft Detailing Brush - These can be had in short and long handle, but you want the long in my opinion. Also available in standard round or Tri-Grip handles. These brushes are excellent for use on more delicate surfaces such a glossy interior and exterior trims. I use these for wheel nuts and dusting air vents. You won't find a softer bristle. https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...il-brush-large https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...il-brush-large ![]() ![]() ![]() Boars Hair Detailing Brush - like the Ultra Soft, these are available in short or long handle. I use these for cleaning heavier soiling on plastics, wheels or exterior trim. https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...ng-brush-large ![]() ![]() ![]() Wheel and Fender Brushes - These are brushes that come in handy for a variety of areas. I'm mostly using these to clean engine bays, but they also work well on wheels and wheel arches. Just like the tyre brush, these have a rubberized soft touch handle, setting them apart from the Vikan brushes that Waxit have sold since the beginning. https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...der-wall-brush https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...eel-face-brush ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Curveball and Screwball Brushes -These take the ultra-soft or boars hair bristles and turns them up 11! Ideal for cleaning larger surfaces and wheels. I also use them for applying tyre dressing, the density of bristles spreads the product extremely well and often negates the need to follow up with a knock down wipe. The Curveball better suited to high profile tyres, the Screwball for low profile. https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...etailing-brush https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...tory-screwball ![]() ![]() ![]() Wheel Barrel Brush - Probably the sturdiest barrel brush I have tried. These are supplied with two removable/washable microfiber covers, for most you would only use the plusher one. This is one of those tools that will last for a very long. Now available in a mini size too. https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...er-wheel-brush https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...heel-brush-kit ![]() ![]() ![]()
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#3249 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,659
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That looks like it’s going to cost me.
While we are talking brushes, what product can I use to treat rubber mats post cleaning? I want them dressed but not greasy. |
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#3250 | |||
Donating Member
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Posts: 12,239
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Quote:
https://detailingshed.com.au/product...3f86baee&_ss=r ![]() ![]() I've been using P&S Swift for rubber mats. It's a interior detailer with some dressing potential, which means it works really well on rubber mats, it enhances but doesn't induce slipperiness. Ethos Interior Detailer is another worthy option. Spray somewhat liberally after cleaning, then buff with a towel. https://autobuff.com.au/products/p-s...t&_ss=e&_v=1.0 https://detailingshed.com.au/product...cf851b02&_ss=r https://autobuff.com.au/products/eth...r&_ss=e&_v=1.0 ![]()
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#3251 | ||
Experienced Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Australasia
Posts: 7,560
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Can anyone recommend any brand products for Nappa leather accented seats, what cleaner/conditioners would be ideal?
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#3252 | |||
Donating Member
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Posts: 12,239
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Quote:
ColourLock - The leather cleaners are brilliant, especially teamed with the specific ColourLock brush. For new leather, use Shield after cleaning, for 3 years and older leather, use Protector. - Mild Leather Cleaner - Stong Leather Cleaner - Leather Brush - Leather Shield - Leather Protector Also available at Detail Store - https://www.detailstore.com.au/searc...e&q=colourlock NV Cleanse & Nourish - the Cleanse leather cleaner is very similar to the ColourLock stuff, while Nourish is easier to apply. I really like how soft Nourish leaves leather, along with the matte OE finish. Cleanse - Nourish - Geist - I would buy this brand in kit form, either the 0-3 years or the Older than 3-years kit. 0-3 Years - Older than 3-years -
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#3254 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,659
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Another night in the shed with the dark horse. This time I was ceramic coating the wheels and brake calipers with NV Wheel.
Boy that is a potent brew and really should be used in a ventilated space. I also put gloves on for this one. I only ended up getting one side done so I’ll do the other two tomorrow. The only tyre shine I had is Bowdens Own which I’m not happy with. |
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#3255 | |||
Donating Member
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Quote:
https://www.fordforums.com.au/showthread.php?t=11498074 I will say, Pirelli P-Zeros seem to exaggerate a dressing, so you have to be careful what you use on them otherwise they tend to be excessively glossy. That may or may not be your preference. If you prefer a runnier dressing, I would look at Carpro Perl diluted 1:1. I love how dark this looks when dried. https://www.waxit.com.au/products/ca...l&_ss=e&_v=1.0 ![]() At the moment, the two products I'm using the most are Obsessed Garage Tire Dressing and Armour Detail Supply Tire+. Both are very similar in performance, look and application. They are a slightly thicker liquid, able to be dispensed from a sprayer but not sprayable, if that makes sense? With both, a little goes a long way, negating some of the cost. I like how these look after a light buff back, a nice satin look. For me, I prefer the OG for the scent, but the banana scent of the ADS is delightful too. https://autobuff.com.au/products/obs...d&_ss=e&_v=1.0 https://autobuff.com.au/products/arm...-tyre-dressing ![]() ![]() I also absolutely love NV Onyx. This is a thicker cream consistency, probably best applied with foam, but also doable with a brush. Satin is its thing, but you can knock it back too, or layer it up for a glossier look. The caramel scent is delightful. https://www.waxit.com.au/products/nv...x&_ss=e&_v=1.0 Dug up a photo of it on my old Pirelli's for you................ ![]()
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#3256 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,659
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I declare bankruptcy!
I spent up big last month in preparation for the new car. Now today another order is inbound. I might look for a cheaper hobby like cocaine or sailing. |
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#3257 | ||
T3/Sprint8
![]() Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Australia
Posts: 16,398
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haha yer so true T G, I even order stuff I feel yep I like that due to DFB's reviews and I haven't even opened the delivery or used for a month or so because I try to use up whats on the shelf already lol....whats good I'm never chasing my tail to re order in desparate need.
I tend to think its my impulse buying for I never do it at servos or other venues. DH must be looking great.
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Tickfords T3/TS50 '02 Sprint8 manual Sept 24 '16 Daily Macan GTS "Don't believe everything you read on the internet. Abraham Lincoln" |
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#3258 | |||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,659
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Quote:
Yeah it’s looking pretty good. The wheels are finished. I just need to clean the interior glass properly and give the interior a wipe over and it’s done. Tint goes on next week. I’ve probably thrown out about $100 worth of microfiber towels with the cleaning and coating. So I’ve got some more on the way for general cleaning duties. I’ll work out how to post up some pics. |
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#3259 | ||
Donating Member
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Posts: 12,239
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Well, don't keep me hanging, which tyre dressing did you chose?
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PX MK II Ranger FG XR6 FG X XR8 Mustang GT T3 TS50 - gone but not forgotten |
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#3260 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,659
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#3261 | |||
Donating Member
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Quote:
From the US market distributor - Three from Aussie content creators - I started using Onyx out of frustration. For some reason, I (like many) was fixated on longevity when it came to tyre dressing. So, products like Megs Endurance, Autoglym's High Performance Tyre Gel and Gyeon Q2 Tire were my go-to's for their extended durability. But they were messy to apply, required more effort to work into the sidewall, attracted dirt and dust, and were extremely messy to remove, leaving your residue on your brushes in the process. Ruining an expensive pair of jeans after brushing past a tyre was the final straw. This sort of thing bothered me, having nasty black applicators caused by solvent based dressings............... ![]() Enter Onyx! This is a water-based tyre, plastic and rubber dressing. It apparently has hydrophobic properties to keep your tyres cleaner for longer. Unlike solvent dressings like Endurance that never really dry, Onyx will dry to a non-greasy finish that will NOT sling. I also find the caramel scent will waft in the garage for a few hours, very pleasant. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
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#3262 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: In Front of a Monitor
Posts: 1,645
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When will DFB FGXR6 be starting your own YouTube Channel?
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2004 Mercury Silver Falcon XR6T - 5 Speed 2017 Platinum White Mustang GT - 6 Speed 2022 Blue Thai-Special for Daily Duties - Auto |
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#3263 | ||
Donating Member
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It exists, a work in progress if you will, a collection of detailing and mower videos. I have plans to expand it once I take long-service leave at some stage in October.
https://www.youtube.com/@dfbsgarage/videos The highest view counts are for these - This one is perplexing, third highest rating for an 18-second clip.
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#3264 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Jan 2022
Posts: 339
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#3265 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: In Front of a Monitor
Posts: 1,645
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Yes and a presentation style will evolve over time.
If DFB FGXR6 did a 5 min review on every bottle and gadget in possession just in Car Detailing, it would be like how many videos......
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2004 Mercury Silver Falcon XR6T - 5 Speed 2017 Platinum White Mustang GT - 6 Speed 2022 Blue Thai-Special for Daily Duties - Auto |
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#3266 | |||
Donating Member
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Quote:
![]() As for presentation style, I'm really really shy, speaking into or behind the camera would make me very uncomfortable. And that would defeat the purpose of detailing for me, it's about being completely at ease in my own comfort zone, not about self-doubt, self-consciousness, or feel as if I have to entertain. Of course, that's not a recipe for success in the world of YouTube, mainly because the audience can't properly relate to the presenter. To be clear, I have never intended to make money from detailing, be that from the actual task at hand, or from any of the content I generate from it. From a content perspective, as in writing and taking photos for forums and social media, it's always been about having an outlet that I simply don't have in my life. It's also about getting me out of my own head and focusing on something other than my problems. Sure, I occasionally get paid to do someone's car, I've even been paid to provide written content for suppliers. But that is the exception, not the rule. At the end of the day, that income goes straight back into product, and/or has provided something to write about. I say all of that to explain that while I do make some videos, its mostly in support of my writing, sometimes words and still images don't fully comprehend what I'm explaining. I would hate for those who see a video of mine linked that I'm doing so to gain views and subscribers. And for that reason, I'm not asking for you to "Like, comment and subscribe", nor will I ever ask at every convenient moment for you to SMASH the like button. If you do, then great, thanks for taking interest in what makes me happy.
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